Sunday, April 5, 2015

Lisette Cut-out Dress: Butterick 6168


Wow, I was in love with this Lisette dress, Butterick 6168, the second I saw it! Those pleats: yes. That v-neck/cross-over bodice: yes. The cut-out: maybe. I was intrigued...


I was planning to cut out the dress this weekend and then join the Lisette sewalong for this dress next week.  But once I started sewing, I was pretty jazzed about it and just kept sewing until it was done. I was able to wear it out for dinner later that evening! I am really happy with it, cut-out and all. 


The fabric is some Cloud 9 organic quilting cotton I've had in my stash for a while now- it's part of the microMod collection from Green Bee Design. It reads grey from afar in these photos, but it's really black with white shapes and teal dots. Weight-wise, the quilting cotton worked just fine for this pattern, giving the pleats a bit of structure, but I think you could also successfully use something with much more drape. Check out the fabric inspiration post on Lisette


Changes I made: Not many! The fit is pretty great on me straight out of envelope- I cut out my normal Butterick size (which is to say about 2 sizes down from what the envelope tells me to cut out based on my bust measurement) and the shape seemed to work for me. I'm really happy with the bodice fit, particularly in the back, where I typically have some swayback-type issues.


Notes:
I did make the sleeves just slightly longer by using a narrower seam allowance when sewing them together (it's a fully lined sleeve). Also, I had some trouble easing the sleeves in. For the life of me, I couldn't get them to fit without a ton of accidental gathers, so I decided to purposefully put some tucks in the sleeves to mirror the bodice tucks. 


One complaint about the pattern is how heavily gathered the skirt it right in the center front. The gathers are really concentrated there and I find it's causing a teeny bit of faux-pregnancy/just ate a giant burrito belly. Good news is: you can eat a giant burrito in this dress because it's more of an empire cut.


I don't think the back neckline finishing method is my favorite: there is a facing in the front, but a bias strip in the back. Mine got a bit lumpy at the shoulder and the top of the zipper seems unfinished on the inside (the instructions just have you fold the extra zipper tape down onto itself).  It would be really easy to just draft a quick back neck facing, though.


I topstitched the seam between the bodice and skirt. The instructions say to press the seam upwards, but I found it wouldn't stay up without help.



That sounds like a lot of "notes," but they are all pretty minor and I am super pumped about this new dress! I think it would be great in a solid color to highlight the pattern details... 


Have you made this pattern? Planning on it? Joining the sewalong?

UPDATE: in which I share some GIFs of myself that indicate a) how hard it is to get nice, friendly, happy-looking blog pics when you have resting bitch face and b) how damn hot it is in Bangkok right now- we were on our balcony for literally 3 minutes and I was sweaty enough to have my hair stick to my face:



44 comments:

  1. I like it! It looks great on you. How great the fit was good right out of the envelope.

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    1. thanks, Linda! yeah, I lucked out on this one. I have a pile of WIPs for which this is certainly not the case!

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  2. It fits you so well! Really pretty. I'm impressed you did it all in one go! :)

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    1. thanks! I made it in two gos, really- Saturday and Sunday morning. But still- pretty quick for a dress!

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  3. This looks fantastic! Great job! It fits so well, the sleeve tucks should be part of the design. :) I wasn't sure about this pattern when it came out, same reasons you stated about the stomach gathers but I want to try it now!

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    1. Thanks, Alicia! Ha- yeah, I tried to make the sleeve tucks look natural and fit into the pattern ;-)

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  4. Wow, Meg - this looks great on you. It is very flattering to your shape and the bodice fit is spot-on. I admit I wasn't super-keen on the pattern but this is making me rethink that.

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    1. thanks, Masha! i am super happy with the fit. I think it's a pretty multi-purpose dress, depending on your fabric. Casual cotton, wedding-worthy silk..

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  5. It looks great on you!! I love the pleats and the cut out!

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    1. Thanks!! I was worried about the cut out, but in the end I am digging it, too!

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  6. I loved this pattern the moment I first saw it, but I'm even more smitten after seeing your make! You and this dress are a fab combo!

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    1. Thanks, Ginny! Yep, I would definitely recommend it! Go for it!

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  7. Dynamite! This dress looks awesome on you! I think the little cut-out gives it some character, and makes it special. I love all the little details and I'm glad you added tucks to the sleeves to match too.
    It will be interesting to see the sew-a-long, and how they deal with the issues you found. I love seeing how a designer puts something together and how they intended things to work.
    PS: Wow - does it seem hot!! I'd be melting for sure!

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    1. Thanks, Heather! I am loving the cut out, too, even though I was a bit nervous about how it would look. And I know what you mean about the sewalong- I am curious to see what tweaks and sewing tips they offer up- always interesting!

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  8. Mi loved this pattern when I first saw it, too, and it looks great on you!!

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  9. Gorgeous. Looks fabulous on you.

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  10. I come here via pinterest. beautiful dress, great job, thanks for sharing.

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    1. thanks! and thanks for visiting ;-)

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  11. I LOVE IT! You look amazing in this. The dress looks very well made

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    1. Thanks, Tasha! Just don't look on the inside at the top of the zipper... the illusion of the dress looking well made will be shattered ;-) My hand sewing is atrocious!

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  12. Oh wow! Definitely my favorite version of this dress I've seen so far! Very well done! And in a quilting cotton too - intriguing! Your GIF cracks me up - you so do not have resting bitch face! Or if you do, it's a very pleasant bitchy face. LOL! I wonder if the gathers in the center would be better or worse in a softer fabric? I have a burrito belly all the time, so ...

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    1. Yep, quilting cotton: I wasn't sure the style would work for me, so I was sorta treating it like a wearable muslin (too lazy to do real muslins). I'm sure in a softer, drapier fabric the gathers would hang a little bit better! Ha ha- re: resting bitchy face- I felt like I was smiling like a clown in those pics, but in some it just looks like I am glaring at my neighbors!

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  13. hee, I love your gifs at the end! And your dress looks fabulous on you! I don't think you have resting bitch face, either, though. :D

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    1. Thanks, Alli! I auto-backup my photos to Google drive and it creates these "autoawesome" photos (i.e. GIFs) if you take several photos within a certain number of seconds. Sometimes they are HILARIOUS.

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  14. SO pretty. I actually really like the cut-out! And love the GIF's! I've got a case of resting bitch face too, but luckily it usually doesn't show in my photos. Usually about half of mine have extremely confused faces, though!

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    1. Thanks, Nicole! In the end I love the cut-out, too, even though it was the only pattern detail I was a bit hesitant about going in. Ha- confused face. Yep, I get that sometimes too. Like 75% of my photos are deleted because I look a) angry b) concerned or c) confused. Sometimes I just cut off my head if the clothes look good but my face is crazy ;-)

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  15. Looks so pretty !!! It's really a beaut !

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  16. Your dress is so very pretty! I generally steer clear of cross-over bodices, but these has all the beauty of one, but appears very 'secure'. It's not too low, and the neckline detail appears to give it more stability! GAH...I love it!! Thanks for sharing!

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    1. Thanks, Sue! Yeah, after wearing the dress twice, there is a teeny bit of gaping with the bodice if you slouch while sitting, but otherwise no issues- very secure!

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  18. I have a couple yards of this fabric that I bought over the winter for pants...but maybe I'll have to copy you straight up now!

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    1. Ooh- this would great pants fabric, too!

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  19. Just saw your dress (and you) on the CSC and had to pop over and look some more. I loved this pattern at first sight (even if the envelope fabric is hiddy). Yours makes me love it even more. It just looks so nice on you. Very pretty!

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    1. Thanks, Debbie! Ha ha- I could see how one might find the rusty orange on the envelope a bit off-putting!

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  20. I was on the fence about this pattern and your view pushed me right over for the win! This is darling and I like it a lot!

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  21. Love it. I'm a fan of the rusty coloured one on the pattern and now yours too! The GIF is brilliant. I'm often scowling at the kids in the background, so cut my face off frequently in blog photos!
    I love a dress that you can whip up as a wearable muslin and have it turn out this awesome.

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  22. Thanks for the inspiration, this dress looks great on you!

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  23. Do you guys think this would work in a medium weight tee shirt knit?

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