Wednesday, June 1, 2016

Three x Santa Fe Top

A trio of Santa Fe tops from Hey June for the first day of June!!


I love me a drapey tee. The tank versions are pretty cute, too. Lots of great options in this pattern. I really like the shape of the Santa Fe top! It reminds me a bit of the Hot Patterns Shirt Tail Tee, shapewise, but swingier, with a wider neckline, and with some different design elements that I dig. The top is perfectly breezy for Bangkok's hot weather. And it doesn't cling to my mid-section, hooray!

The Santa Fe top pattern was so nice that I made it thrice. And I'll probably make more in the future, maybe one of the tank versions! Here are my three versions, all tees, all pretty great.


Santa Fe #1: 

This is my wearable muslin of the Santa Fe top. I made view F. I think the triangular, raglan-esque insets on the sides are really cool.


The bodice is made from some paint-spattered, striped fabric I got as part of a novelty stripes bundle from the Imagine Gnats shop (affiliate link). Fairly thin, but obviously lots of drape. The sleeves and neck binding are cut from scraps of Laguna jersey from another project. Although the Santa Fe calls for a super drapey, non-cotton knit for the top, I thought the relatively less drapey knit would be fine for the sleeves. I was right! It worked out pretty well! I'd say it's most important to have the bodice part made from a fabric with lots of drape.


I left the top unhemmed because I knew this knit would be a headache to hem... I just used a little bit of Fray Check on the ends of each seam to ensure the serger threads didn't unravel.


I went with the size that corresponded with my measurements, an XL. Perhaps I could go down a size, but I'm not unhappy with this one, so I didn't.


Not quite sure I aced the point where the triangular insets meet under the arm. I think I know why, though: I tried to press my seam allowances upwards toward the thicker, darker fabric. I think they should be pressed downwards, really. Now it's a little bit bumpy and not lined up in that area. But again, something most people wouldn't notice. I'll get it right on the next one!


Santa Fe #2: 


This is view C, same size as the previous top, but cut on the fold to eliminate the center front and back seams, which makes it super quick to cut out and sew.


The fabric is some thin, slubby, eye-searingly bright neon striped cotton I got at Girl Charlee a couple years ago. A bit sheer, but, again, perfect for Santa Fe. I did a decent job stripe matching, although I had a brain fart when I cut the cuffs on the cross-grain and they didn't line up. Oh well.


The neck binding is a little bit wider than the pattern piece- I cut it the width of one of the yellow stripes. I opted not to hem this top, either, because I am lazy.


Santa Fe #3

View C again, but with the center front and back seams.
  

The fabric is some burnout jersey from Girl Charlee from several years ago (you might remember that I made my sister a Plantain t-shirt out of it almost two years ago). The jersey was advertised as medium weight, but is the sheerest, lightest weight tissue knit ever. This is how I feel about sewing with tissue weight jersey. How can a fabric be simultaneously slippery and sticky?! Uuuuuuhhhhhhh. But I love the way the fabric looks, so I soldiered on.  In the end, it actually works really well for the Santa Fe top.


My serged seams were super ripply until I topstitched them down on one side of the seam. I topstitched the center front and back seams as well as the shoulder seams, but not the side seams. The topstitching provides just a hint of structure that this knit needs.


I opted to skip the sleeve cuffs and hemming. This knit is a nightmare to hem and I figured the cuffs would be too floppy/saggy. I just left the ends of the sleeves raw, too. We'll see how it goes.


31 comments:

  1. I was totally just eyeballing this top on someone else earlier today! I love those triangular inserts!!!

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    1. Me, too! That's definitely what drew me to the pattern- such a cool design detail!

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  2. I like the colour/stripe blocked one, really shows off that interesting underarm seam nicely!

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    1. Thanks, Katie! I love that one, too. Must make more... the seaming is so cool!

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  3. Super cute for summer! -Marci @ Stone Cottage Adventures

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  4. Love that drapey shape. I have my eye on this pattern!

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    1. The drape is really lovely- lots of fabric, but perfectly proportioned!

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  5. Love them all! I've been thinking about buying this pattern. Looks like it's one I'd get lots of use from.

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    1. Thanks!! I think the number of options really makes this pattern a workhorse...

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  6. All three are super, but the blue... Love eyes!!!

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  7. They all look great! This pattern might need to slip into my repertoire...

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    1. Thanks, Lara! This would look great on you!

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  8. Cute tops. I love the swingy shape.

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    1. Thanks so much! I am loving the feel of the swingy top, too- so comfy!

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  9. Nothing better than a great tee to kick off the summer :)

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  10. Bravo. Très joli !

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  11. My favorite? The "This" link! I know we've ALL been there!

    My favorite top? The quote "muslin". I absolutely love the look on you! The solid sleeves, and the way that the stripes curve downwards on the front. Wow! (Muslin my sweet bippie!) I also absolutely love the look of the nightmare fabric. I also love the idea of unhemmed knits . Do you have previous experience with the outcomes of that? If not, keep us posted!

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    1. Ha ha, glad you understood the feeling I am trying to convey regarding tissue knits!

      I really like the muslin, too, in the end. The sleeve insert seamlines are so cool.

      I've had good luck with unhemmed knits for the most part. I feel like the heavier cotton knits tend to curl, but the drapier knits just stay flat. I haven't found them to unravel, either... yet.

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  12. These all look amazing Meg!! I especially love the first one! I also have a soft spot for the bright stripey one as I used to have a RTW tee just like it. I can't wait to try this pattern too!

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    1. Thanks, Heather! I love the first one the best, too, although I have already worn and fallen in love with all of them...

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  13. This shirt looks great on you in all the colors and styles. Thank you for showing.

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  14. I love them all thank you for sharing.

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