Friday, June 23, 2017

Papercut Patterns Aomori Twist Top

Pattern addict strikes again, this time with one of the new patterns from Papercut Patterns' latest collection, Sakura. This is the Aomori Twist Top!

I was immediately smitten with this casual, relaxed fit, twisty top... It looked to me like a fun alternative to a plain sweatshirt. I also got the Otsu jeans, because, damn, those seamlines.

After my experience working with this hemp and organic cotton jersey from Imagine Gnats, I immediately bought myself two more yards. It's good stuff, this. Drapey, cool texture, gorgeous colors. This time I went for the lovely wine/port color.

You might be thinking, "Say, Meg... didn't you just recently make another twisty Papercut Patterns top out of hemp and organic cotton jersey?" Why yes, yes I did. What?! I like what I like!

Putting together this Aomori Twist Top was enjoyable. It's fairly quick to sew and doesn't take up a ton of fabric. It looks somewhat complicated, but the construction is quite straightforward.

Regarding the construction, I do have a small complaint about the binding. It's done in two, long equal size pieces, sewn together at the short end. However, it's applied asymmetrically, starting at one side seam, going up and around the front edge, back around the neck, over the second front edge, and along the side and back hems to meet back up at the original side hem. So, as a result, the seam between those two binding pieces ends up right on one side of the front neckline in a very obvious place. I'd much prefer if there were a way it could either be aligned with one of the shoulder or side seams or fall at the center back neck or center back hem. You can't see it too much in this fabric, but I imagine in certain fabrics it could be a bit of an eye sore because it is a little bit bulkier at the join and is so prominently located.

Additionally, the instructions have you apply the binding before stitching up the last underarm/side seam, such that you end up sewing two pre-bound pieces together. I don't like having that raw end, though, so I left the last few inches on each end unbound, then sewed and finished the side seam, then tidied up the binding to cover the seam.

The fit is quite relaxed. The sleeves, which originate at dropped shoulders, are spacious, with plenty of room to layer another shirt underneath. I'm not totally convinced about the dropped shoulder. I keep making things with dropped shoulders, hoping I'll grow to like the style, but I'm afraid having a seam at the widest part of my bicep is not the best on me.

The pattern calls for a drapey knit, but it also says you can make the sleeveless version in a woven. Honestly, with how wide the sleeves are, I don't see why you couldn't use a woven for the sleeve version, too. You'd have to alter the finish, as it currently has knit bands, but otherwise I think it should work!

I really like the Aormori! I'm still pinning down exactly what to wear with it. For me, it definitely needs to be layered over another shirt or tank because of the low-cut neckline and the hem in the front, which curves upward to just above where my belly button is located... and belly baring is not my style. Here I've paired with a simple tank top. What are your thoughts on other pairings?