Thursday, May 11, 2017

Liesl + Co. Classic Shirt in Brushed Cotton Plaid

Flexing my plaid matching muscles today!


After making my wearable muslin of the Liesl + Co. Classic shirt, I almost immediately cut and sewed a second one. The pattern held a lot of promise and only required a few minor tweaks to be my perfect boyfriend-style plaid shirt!


For this version, I made the fitting changes I mentioned in my last post: I cut a straight size 16D (instead of grading out to 18 at the hip) and I shortened the bodice by 1" (remember I had also made a 1" full bicep adjustment, which I carried through to this version). 


Worked a treat! It's amazing how a slight change can make such a big difference in how the garment looks and feels. For me, the shirt feels like it's now exactly the right amount of slouchy without being oversized!


I found this awesome plaid fabric at my local fabric shop here in Bangkok. It's like a lightweight flannel. Brushed cotton? I'm not sure I know the difference... whatever it is, it's delightfully soft. And the colors! A lovely soft green, bright orange, and navy, with hints of white and yellow. Yes, yes and yes.


Honestly, I'm not sure who in Bangkok is wearing this type of fabric; it's far too warm for this climate. But perfect for my soon-to-be home in Vermont! Now to find myself some appropriate footwear... six years abroad in Southeast Asia and now I have next to nothing to wear on my feet that will work below 80F (hence the bare feet in these photos).


Anyway, back to the fabric: the only problem with this fabric is that, after my pre-wash, it was wildly off-grain. I had to wrestle with it, quite literally, to get it to align both vertically and horizontally. Imagine three meters of this fabric spread across the floor as I throw my body on it, pulling it on the bias and pinning the stripes every few inches. And, as I cut my pattern pieces from it, it wasn't even clear if I had succeeded and I wasn't sure it would match anywhere I intended it to. 


 But I persevered and everything ended up fine! I cut the front and back bodices on grain, centering the design in the back and trying to make sure the center front and side seams matched (side seams below the bust dart only).


 I did the pockets, button band, yoke, tower plackets and cuffs all on the bias. I wish I could have had the pockets mirror one another, but I couldn't figure out how to make it work since the pattern is not the same vertically and horizontally. I also did a crap job lining them up on the front bodice. Sewing pockets in plaid over big darts is tough! I pinned them over the ham, but they still ended up a bit wonky.


As I was sewing, I decided to sew the hem and side seams in a different order. I hemmed the shirt first, and then attached the sleeves and sewed the side and underarm seams. I did french seams for the armscye and side seams (and all the seam allowances on the yoke and elsewhere are enclosed), so the inside of the shirt is quite tidy and neat!


As you can see by my facial expression, I am quite chuffed with this make! I looooooove it and can't wait to wear it! 


My husband was pretty jealous of my shirt, "Except for those buttons," he said, "which are too big for me." Um, ok, yes, they're a little bit big, but they work for me! Based on his interest, I've already got a brushed cotton plaid shirt cut out for him (in a different plaid; no twinsies). Coming soon!


34 comments:

  1. Lovely and such triffic check matching! Kicking it!

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    1. Thanks!! I am really proud of this one.

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  2. Seriously great job. I'm sure you will wear the heck out of that thing in Vt. I didn't notice anything about the buttons so I zoomed in for a closer look and I think the size is perfect. Men's shirts have such teeny buttons.

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    1. Thanks, Masha! I agree- I think it will be a wardrobe winner in VT!

      The buttons thing is a constant source of disagreement when I make shirts for my husband. I guess the range of what's acceptable for men, both size- and color-wise, is much narrower than for women!

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  3. Yes, this one looks really good. Think I might give it a try too... No FBA sounds really good to me

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    1. Thanks so much! You should give it a try- cup sizes for the win!

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  4. Fabulous work, Meg! It looks so good on you and your stripe matching is perfect!!

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    1. Thank you! I'm so proud of how it turned out!

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  5. What a delightful plaid - fantastic colors!

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    1. Ah, I know! When I saw it in the shop I was like a moth to a flame.

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  6. Great shirt. I seriously wouldn't have noticed the pockets not being exact mirrors if you hadn't mentioned it, and I usually do notice those kinds of things. I think they are balanced, so it works.

    And Vermont? Did I miss something?

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    1. Thanks, Debbie!! I am really happy with how it turned out, pockets be damned!

      Yes! Moving back to the States in a couple of months. You might have noticed an uptick in cool weather clothing sewing around here ;-)

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  7. I love it! You are inspiring with all of your sewing.

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  8. Moving from Bangkok to Vermont? Wow, you will love sewing lots of new garments like jackets and coats which many sewists really enjoy. This cute, new shirt will be the start of your new wardrobe! Karen

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    1. Thanks!! Ha, yeah, big move, huh? I've already gotten started on some cool weather clothes, but I'll have to step up my game to stay warm come fall and winter!

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  9. looks great and I really like the colors on you. Perfect for Vermont.

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    1. Thanks, Beth!! I was hoping the plaid would help me fit in up north ;-)

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  10. That shirt looks great! I moved from CA to VT a few years ago and needed several more flannel shirts. Luckily it's easy to find appropriate footwear, outerwear etc. once you get there. Unfortunately there isn't much in the way of fabric stores in VT. Nido is a nice small fabric shop in Burlington.

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    1. Thanks so much!! I'll definitely have to do some shopping and sewing when I return!

      Nice to meet another VT-based garment sewist! I stopped by Nido when we visited last year- it's cute and I am excited about their weekly open craft nights!

      I was poking around on the internet for more fabric shops in VT and saw that this place looks really promising (and is on the road between my mom's house and Burlington, so it may be a frequent stop for me!): http://www.delectablemountain.com/

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  11. You're moving to Vermont?!!! (I must have missed that update, sorry!) Well, this will be perfect! And you can sew coats! Ha! I am super loving this on you and can't wait to start my classic shirt. I can't figure out what size I should cut, so I may do a muslin at least of the front.

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    1. I am! Big move. I will definitely step up my coat sewing game. I've gotten started sewing some more cool weather clothes, but have barely made a dent!

      Looking forward to seeing your Classic Shirt!

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  12. Looks fabulous Meg. I know exactly what you mean about warped fabric, and I'm sure I've adopted that same floor position, but you still made me laugh

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    1. Thanks, Shelley!

      Stretching the fabric was pretty comical! I felt like a sewing Mr. Bean or something.

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  13. I love your shirt and the fabric; it looks great on you and will be a go to shirt when you are living in Vermont. I learnt this great trick recently for attaching pockets and getting them to stay in the right place over a bust dart. Put your dressmakers ham underneath the area where you will place the pocket, use 'Steam-A-Seam2 tape on the pocket and then place the pocket into position on your shirt fronts where your markings are. Then press. Then sew!!

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  14. Bravo pour cette superbe chemise! Et bon courage pour le déménagement! Béné (de France)

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  15. That looks like a very comfortable shirt for cooler weather! You nailed it!

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  16. I love your shirt! What great colors in that plaid. Well done!

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  17. Hi, from a sewist in Vermont! Make sure to sew all the flannel shirts you can, just like this, and you'll be all set to fit right in. Be warned that there's not a lot of fabric shops beyond quilting or interior goods. Fabric is pricy here and thrifting is tough pickings. Make sure you grab all the cheap stuff you can manage to pack before you get here!

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  18. Wow, forgot to check back for your second shirt and there's big news here! Coming back to New England! Woohoo! Delectable Mountain is a very cool store with some truly beautiful fabrics, but you will have definite sticker shock after Bangkok. Shopping for fabric in New England usually requires a long car ride, or chances on the internet. But it can be done. Hope the move goes slowly, will you be in Southern VT? Gonna need some warm, and dry, shoes.....

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