Monday, May 8, 2017

Wearable Muslin: Liesl + Co Classic Shirt in Seersucker


I've really liked working with Liesl + Co patterns in the past, and I'm still on the hunt for the perfect basic buttondown, so I was pretty excited when she recently released the Classic Shirt.


I have lots of buttondown patterns that I love, including the Cashmerette Harrison for body-skimming loveliness, the Style Arc Elsie Overshirt for a boxy v-neck, but I really wanted a basic boyfriend shirt: a bit slouchy, but not oversized, without a lot of extra seaming and with all the basic buttondown details. 


My Archers, which fit that description, have been fine, but not WOW projects for me, probably because of the lack of darts. They just don't feel quite right. The new Classic Shirt seemed to tick all of my boxes, though, and also had the added benefit of cup sizes (A/B, C and D).


The Classic Shirt has tower plackets and double pleats on the sleeves, a curved hem and double pleats on the back bodice. It's got two different pocket options and the option to have the button band folded over from the main shirt front, or sewn on separately. The back yoke seam is slightly curved, rather than being straight.


I noticed that the instructions use a different (from the burrito method) way of enclosing the yoke seams, folding the shoulder seam allowance under and then topstitching at the shoulder. There is also an interesting collar construction method, although I'll admit I stuck with my usual method from Four Square Walls.


I was a little bit confused about how to choose a size for this pattern since it has cup sizes. Should I go by my full bust measurement? or high bust? Liesl answered my question by pointing me to this article. Maybe I am being dense, but it didn't really clarify anything for me since it referred to standard patterns that don't have separate cup sizes: you go by high bust and then adjust the bust to fit your cup size. I know for Cashmerette patterns, though, which also have cup sizes, that you just go by full bust and choose the size closest to your measurement.


But this was a muslin anyway, so I went by my full bust, which put me at a 16, and I chose a cup size D. I think 16 was the right size for the shoulders, though. I don't think I could go any smaller there!

My hips were between 16 and 18, so I graded out to 18 to be safe, but I think that was unnecessary; there's a lot of extra room in the hips! I'm also finding it to be a little bit long through the bodice, which is adding to the oversized feeling. I may go back and tighten up the side seams to take out the excess.

I preemptively did about a 1" full bicep adjustment on the sleeves, which worked out well. I left the length of the sleeves unchanged- they were perfect as is.


The fabric I chose is a cotton seersucker fabric with thin grey and taupe stripes. I got it at this weird store in Bangkok's Chinatown that seems to have garment fabrics that fell off the back of a truck. The selection is really random, they occasionally look a bit roughed up, but there are almost always gems to be found if you're willing to dig. And the best part is the price: everything in the store is 3 meters for 100 Thai Baht (the equivalent of about US$2.90). Perfect for wearable (or even non-wearable) muslining!


The fabric acted a little bit strangely when sewing, though. When applying the iron-on interfacing and pressing areas like the collar, cuffs and button stand, the wrinkles in the fabric flattened and the pieces stretched a bit. I'm hoping they re-wrinkle when I throw the shirt back in the wash.

I cut some of the pieces on the cross-grain for interest, although it's difficult to see in these photos because the stripes are so light colored. I cut the yoke, button band, pockets and cuffs all with the stripes going horizontally. 


I've already started cutting out a second Classic Shirt, making a few of the fitting changes I mentioned (i.e. a straight size 16D with 1" in length removed). I'm looking forward to following along with the Classic Shirt Sew-along, too, to see if there are any helpful tips and tricks!

24 comments:

  1. Thanks for a really thorough review!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I hope it's helpful, Kate! It's a great pattern.

      Delete
  2. Can't go past a great shirt! This pattern has some nice deets!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I love a good shirt... definitely good deets on this one!

      Delete
  3. Looks like a really comfy shirt, I really love the shape of the hem. This pattern is on my list for fall now.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's a good one, Masha! Cup sizes for the win!

      Delete
  4. Looks great Meg. I get your which size question. Not having much up front I've never had to think of it but I'll be curious to see how this works for me too.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks!! Ha, I felt silly not really understanding what size to choose even after having feedback from the designer, but in the end it worked out anyway!

      Delete
  5. The shirt does have that slouchy look you're going for which is a good thing. It will be interesting to see the second one and if you like it better with the changes. What fabric are you using for that one?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I just finished the second one, actually, and it's spot on! It's amazing how much difference just a little tweak makes... I made it from brushed cotton/flannel-y stuff, which also has a bit more drape than this seersucker.

      Delete
  6. Thank you for your review, as I am thinking of buying this pattern. Based on what I read here, I think I will like it. The finish is very professional. I will like to see your second version, if you post it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's a good pattern, Philippa! I hope my review was helpful!

      I just finished my second version and love it; I just have to take photos and I'll have it up here soon...

      Delete
  7. The size instructions baffled me completely. I'm still not totally sure which size to start off with but based on your review I'll go with my full bust and see.

    Thanks for a great review!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Full bust worked for me!

      Hope my review was helpful!

      Delete
  8. Wow, this pattern literally just landed on my desk this morning! Great timing! Looking at the finished measurements on the pattern it seems like a very roomy fit, but doesn't look that way on the model on the pattern envelope. Do you think it would work with a smidge of waist shaping in the side seams.....? My measurements put me in the size 14 with a D cup, but all the ease makes me a bit nervous. What do you think? Ironically in the middle of sewing two Archers with self drafted bust darts.....

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. For me, going by my full bust ended up with a shirt that fits well, not too roomy, at the bust and shoulders. It's definitely roomier than it should be at the hips, but I was between sizes there and opted to size up. I just finished the version with the hips sized down and it's perfect.

      You could definitely add a little bit of waist shaping- the pattern pieces are pretty straight up and down.

      Do a quick muslin of the body pieces!

      Delete
  9. I am tempted as well to try this pattern. How would you compare it with the Granville from sewaholic? Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's a great pattern! I can't really compare it to the Granvill e because I haven't made that pattern yet, but I don't believe the Granville has cup sizes; it's just drafted for a B cup and a pear-shaped body. I believe the Granville has much more fitting in the back bodice with those vertical seams, too.

      Delete
  10. Good grief you sew fast! Looks good.
    Do you mind sending me an email describing how to get to that back-of-truck shop? Also I cannot remember how to get the knits place, or the belle-boo places, or the shop with the fold-over elastics, that amazing trim shop.... street names are great, but mentioning landmarks helps a lot too. Pretty please ��
    I assume you will be much to busy packing up and saying goodbye to neighbours to make another trip down there.
    You've hired a shipping company? Or just donating down to nearly nothing? It just occurred to me you could sell a few household items through the Bambi organization here. It is a moms and babies group, but you never know... they do have classifieds.
    Mary in Thailand

    ReplyDelete
  11. I just opened all three of shirt patterns made by you (classic, archer and harrison), thinking that there really didnt look like there was much difference between this and the archer. I am pleasantly surprised - mostly by the length and more relaxed fit in this classic shirt - I too like a shirt with a bit more of a boyfriend feel (and prefer more length) so think maybe this one is a winner! I own both the harrison and the archer and haven't found the courage to try either yet (collars! tower plackets!) but I think I should try make all 3 simultaneously and see which one I prefer! fun! thanks for a great review as always!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The difference isn't extreme, but those little differences make a big impact on fit and feel for me!

      You should try some of the patterns- you can do it! Collars and tower plackets are not so bad. Just choose something easy to sew for your first try- cotton lawn or something crisp and not slippery.

      Delete
  12. Nice! I was curious about that pattern.... and had a similar experience with seersucker this week. Agh!

    ReplyDelete
  13. Thank you for your comments on this shirt, it's on my to-do list for the next month or so! Can't wait to see your second version!

    ReplyDelete