Monday, July 17, 2017

Plaid McCall's 6044: Now with Sleeve and Yoke Mods!

My husband was green in the face over the classic plaid shirt I made for myself. If it weren't for the oversized buttons and bust darts, I think he might have tried to steal the shirt for himself.


Luckily I have purchased some more plaid brushed cotton from Hieng Yoo Huat (one of my favorite Bangkok fabric shops) to make him a shirt, too (in a different plaid, naturally). 


I used my TNT McCall's 6044 pattern, but I made some adjustments to jazz it up (I've been meaning to do this for a while now!). Namely, I added a back yoke, changed the sleeve from two-piece to one-piece and added a tower placket to the sleeves.


Combining the two piece sleeve into one piece was easy; there was no shaping along the seam, so it was as simple as tracing both pieces and overlapping them to eliminate the seam allowances. I used used the tower placket piece from the Liesl + Co. Classic Shirt, although I was struggling with the pointed top for some reason, so I squared it off.


I also added a basic yoke (this pattern only has a western-style yoke option). I cut the back bodice as one piece as usual, but also cut a bias yoke, straight across, about 5" down from the shoulder. I sewed the back, front and yoke piece together at the shoulder, then flipped the yoke down, pressed the edge under and then topstitched it to the back bodice.


Plaid-wise, I did approximately the same thing as I did for my plaid shirt: I cut the bodice and sleeves on the straight grain and the button stand, cuffs, tower plackets, pockets and collar on the bias. I did a decent job of plaid matching despite having the same issue with this plaid that I did with the other... so off grain!!


I took these photos in front of the trash and recycling barn (maybe originally a carriage house?) at our temporary apartment. Not sure I'll use this spot for future blog photos shoots; the lines in the wood drive me crazy because I can't get them straight!


Tim likes his shirt, though! And even though it's the dead of summer here, it's almost cold enough to wear it at night. The days are warm, but the nights get chilly. It's all relative, though, I suppose.

15 comments:

  1. Great shirt! Funny how the lines in the house siding bug you. :-)

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    1. Ha ha, thanks! I feel like I worked so hard to match the plaid and the crooked stripes are detracting from it ;-)

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  2. if you're thinking its cold at night now, wait til August.

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    1. My line when anyone asks me how it's going in VT is, "So far, so good, but ask me again in January."

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  3. It's a great shirt! I didn't realize that pattern only had a western-style yoke; that's good to know. It's on my list to buy the next time Joann's has a McCall's sale. And I bet you'll be sewing a lot more flannel in the coming months!

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    1. It is strange that it's western yoke or nothing, isn't it? Yes! Flannel and wool and fleece, oh my!

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  4. Great shirt!! It seems like a particularly sewist problem that the wood siding would bother you because you can't get it straight ... and in a post where you talk about off-grain plaid too! There's something this reveals about sewists and their need for symmetry ...

    I have a feeling the nights are going to be getting a bit chillier in the coming months! Welcome state-side, my friend!

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    1. Totally! I feel like the off-grainness of the wood is detracting from all the work I put into getting the plaid on grain and matched ;-) Makes my eyes twitch!

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  5. This is a great looking shirt with your modifications. Great work on matching the plaid too. This pattern is the one I use for my hubby too (with a few modifications)

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