Wednesday, January 10, 2018

Dude Sewing: Bram Raglan + Beer Belly Adjustment

I made my brother a garment and it fits! I'd tried to sew him a couple things in the past, but nothing has quite worked out yet for various reasons (fabric with no recovery, poor instructions). Third time's the charm!



I've been on the hunt for a men's raglan sleeved t-shirt and thought all of the samples and tester versions from the Wardrobe by Me Bram Raglan looked great, so I bought the pattern. It's got an assortment of sleeve lengths and two hem options. For my brother, I opted for long sleeves, because winter, as well as the curved hem, because I like it.


My brother has a bit of a, ahem, beer belly (well, maybe a butter and cream belly?). Although his chest measurement put him in a 2XL, his belly measurement was outside the pattern range. 


I did some Googling and found two resources (from Jennifer Lauren and Colette) on doing a full belly adjustment for the front of the shirt. I followed these, using his adding 2 inches to the pattern piece (for a total of 4 additional inches), making sure to true up the side seam so it matched the back.


The fabric I chose is the Laguna cotton/lycra jersey in navy, from the Imagine Gnats shop. Laguna cotton is such a great, reliable fabric.


I am pretty happy with how it turned out! The fit is pretty good, I think. The neckline is ever so stretched out, so next time I might shorten the band a bit, and I might shorten the sleeves.

But the full belly adjustment worked fairly well (although do you think it swings out too much at the hem? Like it's too A-line?). I'm ready to try it out on other, more complicated patterns! 

9 comments:

  1. Your brother looks like a happy, nice guy! And I about burst out laughing at the description beer belly adjustment! Thanks for the links, they are bookmarked.

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    1. He is a happy, nice guy! Glad you found the resources helpful!

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  2. It doesn't look too flared or swing-y to me. It looks comfortably fitted and balanced. A straighter or tapered-in hem would just accentuate a tummy more, where this is a nice flattering effect overall.

    The pocket is a little weird, but I think that's more because of the raglan lines than anything else. Not sure I've seen many raglans with pockets, and I think this is why. Still, it splits the torso in a flattering way and is 'pleasantly distracting' overall. Great color, too!

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    1. Oh good, glad it's not too swingy.

      The pocket placement is a bit weird. I think maybe it could be higher and to the side more? Or maybe, as you said, pockets on raglans are odd.

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  3. Nice shirt!! I have that pattern and am planning on sewing it for my husband. How did you know your brother was outside the pattern range for the belly? Did you measure the pattern? I don't see that measurement on the pattern measurement chart. Also, how did you decide on 4 inches? Thank you.

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    1. I don't think I measured the pattern; I think I noticed that the side seams go straight down from the chest, so that the chest measurement is the same as the waist and hip measurement. Does that make sense?

      And I chose 4 inches because that seemed like as far as I could swing out the hem without getting ridiculous, but that would also get me to his belly measurement. It was a bit of an experiment that I wasn't sure would work!

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  4. It is a great looking t-shirt and bringing in the hem would only accentuate any belly. I had to go back and find the pocket and my husband would be thrilled with it, as he loves a pocket on any shirt for his glasses and pen.

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    1. Thanks! Glad there's consensus on the hem ;-)

      Pockets are also useful! Next time I may play with the placement a little bit, but they're good to have.

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  5. I also agree on the hem. I hate it when men wear shirts that hug their beer gut. Or that are too short because of it. This looks great. My brother and hubby have the same "fitting issue", so thanks.

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