Tuesday, October 29, 2019

Sunny Sienna Maker Jacket

This jacket is bringing a little bit of sunshine into my sewing studio even though the days are getting darker...


This is the latest pattern from Closet Case Patterns, the Sienna Maker Jacket. When I first glimpsed the line drawings of this pattern as a tester, well over a year ago, I was immediately smitten, and seeing the lovely Monserratt model the newly expanded size range was just icing on the cake.


I had trouble deciding which view to sew first! I love all the little details that really make this jacket special... although my first love was the belted version, in the end, I went for View C, the cropped chore jacket with a back vent and sleeves with button pockets.


I had a 2 yard piece of golden yellow denim in my stash that perfectly fit View C. I bought this 9 ounce mustard Cone Mills denim from Imagine Gnats a couple of years ago, but it looks like they just restocked it this week! It is the perfect weight for the Sienna Maker Jacket.


I think when I washed my denim, back in the day, I let it sit in the dryer a bit too long, hence the permanent wrinkles. I kinda like them, though! One of my coworkers thought it was leather... 


I agonized a bit over which size to pick. I'm an in-betweeny, with my measurements putting me into both of Closet Case Patterns' size ranges (0-20 B-cup and 14-30 D-cup) and I wasn't sure which would be appropriate for me. I wear a D-cup bra, but that doesn't necessarily translate to a D-cup for garment sewing. My high and full bust measurements only differ by 1" and I don't have particularly small or narrow shoulders.


Reading up on the size ranges, though, and looking at the Sienna Maker Jacket's finished measurements, I ultimately opted for the size 18 from from 0-20 range. Really happy with my choice! It's loose enough that I can fit a sweater underneath, but not oversized. Are there a couple drag lines from some perspectives that maybe could be eliminated with a  dart? Yes. Insert shrugging emoji. Maybe I'll try the dart version next time.


Construction-wise, I'll be honest that I had trouble with collar. Maybe it was poor marking, or maybe I'm just not that good at precision sewing, but sewing the bit where the collar meets the lapel (sew precisely to the dot from multiple directions, multiple times) was a nightmare that I unpicked like 100 times. I couldn't get it so that it didn't have either a big hole or a bunchy mess.


Ultimately I ended up unpicking the lot and trying a different method: rather than sew the undercollar to the jacket and the upper collar to the facing, then sew them together, I sewed the upper and under collar together, turned right side out, then sandwiched them between the jacket and facing and sewed it together. It may not be the proper way, but it's what worked for me!


Similarly, I had an issue with the hem for some reason- my hem stitching was overlapping the bottoms of the patch pockets. I think, in retrospect, it's because I was binding the hem rather than doing a double-turn hem, and I should have trimmed off the extra half inch before binding? To accommodate, I unpicked the bottom of the pockets, hemmed, and then restitched the pockets over the hem.


Speaking of binding - I did Hong Kong seams to finish all of my seam allowances. The fabric for my bias binding, and my sleeve pockets from a piece of beautiful Indonesian hand-stamped batik that I bought when I lived in Jakarta. I made my niece (I think?) a beautiful raglan shirt out of this batik a long, long time ago, and had half the piece left.


This jacket has a lot of buttons! 3 on the front, 3 on the back vent, and one on each sleeve. I opted for some silver jeans buttons from my stash. I was worried the ones on the back placket might dig into my back, but I wore the jacket to work and had no issues!


I got to use my new "one of a kind" label from Stitch Collective- I love it! This jacket is certainly one of a kind, and this hanging label pairs perfectly with my personalized sew-in labels from Dutch Label Shop. The perfect little finishing touches.


I am so delighted with my Sienna Maker Jacket! I wore it to work yesterday and my colleague asked me if I could will the jacket to her when I die. So if I go soon, you'll know it's Wendy at my office who did it for my Sienna Jacket! Until then, I think I'll get a lot of wear out of this statement piece... Can't wait to make the other views!

9 comments:

  1. Beautiful!! I purchased Sienna the day it was released, and I've been struggling with- which version to make first- ever since. Now I'm leaning towards cropped! I have noted your collar instructions and method of construction...I will see what i encounter when I get that far! Thanks for the pictures Meg- they really help along with your descriptions.

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  2. I LOVE your jacket! The colour and the fit is perfect on you!

    If you don't mind, could you tell me how much ease you have when wearing it? I really like the look of the jacket on you, and the modeled photos on the CCP site had just a bit too much ease for my taste.

    Finally, I found this video online for a lapel collar, which seems to make sewing the points a bit easier -- I'm planning to use this method rather than the one in the instructions ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jk7-D4bl29g)

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  3. Your jacket is great but I really LOVE the binding and finishing touches. Glad you were able to find a technique that worked for the lapel because it looks great. Do you want to make the longer version with the buckle? That's the version that's really calling my name.

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  4. I have a cut of this same Cone Mills denim, and I've been having cat-like indecision about what to do with it (I LOVE the color, and it's become one of those too-precious-to-cut fabrics for me). Jacket was one of the options that I was thinking of--I may just have to steal your design pairing and do the Maker jacket with mine (as I also own that pattern).

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  5. Love your Sienna and it looks great on you. I am making a list of patterns I want to make in the next couple months. The Sienna in the cropped and thigh length versions are on the list. I hope to underline the thigh length for warmth. And I am going to do my first Hong Kong finish on the cropped version. Thanks for the inspiration!

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  6. Your jacket is wonderful!! I love the color and yes, Imagine Gnats just restocked. So glad to read about your technique on the collar. When I received the pattern, I immediately went to the instructions and my heart sank a little bit when I saw the "tailoring" method. The last time I used this method was in a tailoring class in college. it sure takes some perfecting!

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  7. I too have this same cone denim. When I purchased it I was thinking it would be just a bit darker and initially planned pants. But, I've been second guessing that for a long while. Now, I'm thinking maybe I need to make a slightly matchy Sienna. Although I'm debating that back vent and maybe changing up the front pockets slightly.

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    1. Oh, and forgot to mention - yours looks fantastic on you!

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