Tuesday, April 14, 2020

Seamwork Joss Pants

I've never met an elastic waist pants pattern I didn't want to try... 


Here's my take on the latest pant pattern from Seamwork, Joss

Note: I am a newly appointed Seamwork Ambassador, which means I received a one-year subscription in exchange for sewing up 10 of their patterns and providing some feedback to Seamwork about their patterns, articles, etc. If you use this link, you can get a little discount if you decide to purchase from Seamwork.


I loved Seamwork's green linen Joss sample, as well as the other versions I saw pop up online in the past week... chic, yet comfy, perfect for our current stay-at-home situation. 

Joss has an elastic waistband, wide legs cropped at the ankles, a high rise, and two front patch pockets.


The Joss pattern looked like a quick, satisfying project, too. I needed something soothing and somewhat frivolous after making a ton of masks


The Joss pattern calls for medium-weight woven fabrics. I opted for this piece of Alison Glass Mariner Cloth that I bought on a whim. It's got a lovely texture, with these raised, woven-in stripes, and a gorgeous bright spring-y pear green color. The Mariner Cloth worked well for the Joss pattern; a good weight and drape. 

I cut the waistband and pocket pieces on the cross-grain to save fabric and have the fabric's texture run in the opposite direction for some visual interest.


My lower body measurements put me smack between the size 16 and 18 on Seamwork's size chart. And the 16 and 18 are not in the same pattern file or made from the same block, which makes it kinda hard to blend between those two sizes. 


As such, I agonized over which size to choose. I was too lazy to cut a muslin, so I threw caution to the wind and ended up cutting a size 16, figuring I could give myself a smaller seam allowance in the hip if necessary. The 16 worked out great, though! I'm really happy with the fit. I love the super high waist, especially. 


The only changes I made to this version is to put a strip of interfacing across the tops of the pockets for some extra support. I bought a roll of this 1" wide interfacing from Wawak a couple months ago and I love it so... I also topstitched the crotch seam for durability.


One small change I might make next time is to simplify the waistband to reduce bulk: the Joss waistband is curved, with separate fronts and backs, as well as separate facings. It's a wee bit bulky for my taste when the elastic is in there, and I wonder if a one piece straight waistband might work just as well and have a lower profile.


Pretty chuffed with these Joss pants! They pair perfectly with my Seamwork Bo I made last year, and almost too perfectly with this Shirt No. 1 I made with the scraps of Mariner Cloth left over from my Joss pants! I don't know if I'll rock this faux jumpsuit as such since it's, well, a lot. But it's great as separates!


17 comments:

  1. Sure have missed you, Meg! I actually like the monochrome look better than the pants with the black top. I think if visually slims the look of the wide legs on the pants. Glad you are back to posting! Stay well!

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    1. Me too. Exact same reaction. The strong contrast of black and lime makes you look shorter.

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    2. Interesting! I far prefer the contrast, but glad to know the all-green isn't too ridiculous!

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  2. OMG! I am totally smitten with the Mariner cloth!
    Good lookin for your pants, too!
    Also, thank you for the visual comparison between the Bo and the Shirt No. 1 - have been dithering between those patterns for myself.

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    1. The Mariner Cloth is really nice stuff!

      And thank you!

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  3. These pants are amazing! I have a top I made with that Mariner cloth also. It has a very cool texture and I can totally see how great it would work for pants. I got a Seamwork subscription for Christmas and so really love it!

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    1. Thanks!! The texture of the Mariner Cloth is so good!

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  4. I love how these pants look on you, and the color is perfect for Spring!

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  5. They look fabulous. I would definitely do a straight waistband for a full elastic waist too. Although I do love a shaped waist in flat-fronted trousers.

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    1. Agreed- I love a curved waistband for lower rise pants, but I think for these I would just to a straight waistband next time.

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  6. Your Joss pants look great on you, and I love them with the black Bo top, and black sandals. I just finished making the Joss in Brussel Washed Linen and the crotch is too long, even though I have a long torso and shorter legs. I made my usually size 8 but could size down to 6. Have you heard anyone else mention problems with crotch length?

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    1. Thank you! The rise is very high. It's working for me, but I could imagine it might be too long for others. I think I saw some folks on Instagram who had the same issue.

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  7. Hi Meg, thank you for sharing. How did you finish the seams of the Mainer cloth? Last year I made a dress with it and found it to be messy and my seam allowances unravelled even with a zigzag. Any ideas?

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    1. Hi there- I used my serger to finish the seams, which worked pretty well. If you don't have a serger, though, maybe French seams or flat felled seams would work well, depending on what you're making?

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