Thursday, March 12, 2015

Peacock Wenona Shirt

So this is definitely not selfish sewing, but I promise this was made long before Selfish Sewing Week... 

This is a Named Patterns Wenona blouse that I made for my sister. I actually made it before I made my Wenona, but sending it off to the other side of the world and waiting for photos in return takes a while:

While I think this Wenona also came out pretty awesome, it's got similar fitting issues to mine. The lack of shaping in the body just makes it a bit lackluster and tent-like. I am hoping my mom can help my sister take it in at the waist a bit to make it more flattering.

The fabric for the body is Belleboo quilting weight cotton in this beautiful peacock feather print, plus some plain black shirting for the colorblocking (yokes, cuffs, collar and stand, the sleeve strips): 

The Wenona pattern has really interesting construction because of the stripes (strips?) down the sleeves. Took a bit of thinking, but anything that allows me to make a shirt without setting in sleeves also makes me very happy. You sew the two lower parts of the sleeve together, then sew them to the bodice (side but not shoulder seams already sewn together). Then you sew the stripes on.

I decided, although the instructions didn't call for it, to topstitch along the seams on the sleeve stripes. Easy enough on one of them, but because of the strange construction, the second one required lots of maneuvering, but it was doable.

Each time I make another buttondown shirt, I get more confident with my cuffs, button plackets and collars. The cuffs came out particularly well on this top, although my collar is still not quite there. Somehow when I topstitch the collar stand from the outside, sometimes it shifts on the inside and I don't catch the inner layer all the way around, especially where it curves. I think I may have to try another order of sewing the collar. And maybe the glue stick trick, too.

I love that pointed back collar with the button!:

Yep, a bit too much fabric in the waist area, but damn the yoke, collar and pleat look good!

Have you sewn Wenona yet? Thoughts?