Tuesday, August 15, 2017

Grainline Willow Tank x 2

Two Grainline Willow tanks for your viewing pleasure... a wearable muslin and a more refined linen/cotton version.



Note: Imagine Gnats provided me the Willow pattern and the linen/cotton fabric for free, but all of my opinions are my own.


The fabric for this wearable muslin is a golden/mustard dobby cotton that I bought at my 3 meters for 100 baht store (check out my Bangkok fabric shopping guide for more on this place if you're planning a Bangkok trip anytime soon!). I love the color mustard in the abstract, but I'm not sure it's the best color for me in practice. But I'll probably pair this one with a cardigan or blazer in a color that does look good on me and that will mitigate it a bit.


The other version, which I blogged about on Imagine Gnats, uses a lovely lightweight linen/cotton blend, a great weight for the Willow. 


I sewed both tanks using French seams since my serger is still en route from Bangkok. This is a great pattern with which to practice French seaming since there are so few seams.


I've been curious about the Willow pattern for a while now. How does it compare to other tanks I've made, like the Cashmerette Springfield, Wiksten Tank, and Grainline's own Tiny Pocket Tank?


I'm pleasantly surprised at how much I like this tank! The bust fits me much better than the Wiksten or Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank does... I have weird upper bust pulling issues with the Tiny Pocket Tank and the Wiksten doesn't have bust darts, so its fit is inherently not as good. Without alteration, the bust darts hit me closer to my apex than the darts on the Springfield Top. 


However, although I like the fit above the bust darts, I am still trying to figure out what is happening below the bust darts to create that weird drape. Thoughts? It's less apparent in the linen version than in the wearable muslin.


Style-wise, the Willow has a nice boxy, slightly cropped, almost vintage look. Certainly in this mustard fabric it's got a late '60s vibe to it that I like. The deep, 2 inch hem is fabulous.

Like t-shirts, I feel like there is room for many tank top/shell patterns in the sewing world. They're each a bit different and fill a different niche.


Have you made the Willow tank? What's your favorite woven tank pattern?

18 comments:

  1. I love that mustard dot! I think a navy blue or black cardigan (like the Blackwood) would look great over it. As far as the drag lines, my guess is that the darts are actually too long, and that if you shorten them by .75 to an inch or so, those fabric folds will go away.

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    1. Ah, that makes sense. I feel lost without my Fitting for Real People book, which is in my shipment from Bangkok! I'll play around with the darts before making it again.

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  2. These are sooooo chic! I love the 60s vibe. I am going to second Masha and suggest that the darts are a bit long. That extra fabric should be providing fullness over the bust rather than released post-apex.

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    1. Thanks, Inder! I'll definitely play around with the darts when I make this next. Perhaps another wearable muslin is in order.

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  3. I was thinking that the darts look just a bit low and probably a bit too long.

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  4. That blue dot fabric is great! I love it with the simple lines of the top. I would be tempted to change the angle of the darts a bit, they look a bit horizontal from here. But hardly noticeable with that great fabric!

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    1. I was thinking they were a bit straight out, too. I like a dart with a bit of an upwards angle.

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  5. Cute! I agree, darts maybe long and low and horizontal. I made a willow muslin and found the upper bodice - above the bust - to be tight. Am thinking I might scoop out the front and bottom of the armscye a bit to release the tension... I love the mustard color on you! it's striking.

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    1. Thanks, Coco! I will definitely play around with the darts for next time. I'm happy with the neck and armscye fit, so hopefully a few dart tweaks will help elsewhere!

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  6. I agree with the other ladies, darts maybe a smidgen too long and low.... really nice shoulder fit on you!

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    1. Thanks! That seems to be the consensus! I'll make the updates and report back ;-)

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  7. Agree dart too long, but I think the true reason for the folds is that your dart isn't large enough. Pin a larger dart and the folds will go away.

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    1. Thanks, Suzanne! Good idea! I'll definitely plan to play around with the darts to eliminate the folds.

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  8. Hi Meg! I'm not an experienced enough seamstress to know what the problem might be with your willow tank. I'm just popping in to say that I think it looks great on you! I especially love the linen blend with the large teal dots.

    I've made this pattern twice now, and it's probably my most successful garment project to date (out of an admittedly limited sample size). I made my first one out of a midweight quilting cotton (I know, the mark of an inexperienced sewist). It turned out great! I think the fabric actually worked out really well b/c it gave the tank lots of structure and emphasized the boxy shape. I've gotten lots of compliments about it.

    I made a second one out of a garment weight cotton blend, and I like it too, but I confess I prefer the quilting cotton version.

    In both cases, I was feeling very skeptical about it until I hemmed it. That two-inch hem seems to transform this tank. I made the size 14 first in an old bed sheet and it fit well except that the dart was too low for me, so I got a chance to experiment with moving a dart, which was cool.

    I'm thinking of making another one for fall - maybe in some kind of plaid wool. I think it would look really funky worn over a long-sleeve t-shirt.

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    1. Thanks!! I do think this boxy shape is great for using quilting cotton- it actually looks great with a bit of stiffness! The 2 inch hem is just great, isn't it? Looking forward to seeing your wool version- that will be so cool!

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  9. The bubbles print is so cute! Is it nerdy of me that I could spot that it was linen/cotton before I read about it? I'm just discovering woven tanks. I've been working on DGPatterns' Olvie Top and I did a wee hack with a shoulder frill on the sleeveless version. I need to do some work with the armhole as it dips down a little too much for me at the sides (my perennial fitting problem with all tanks), but it's so comfortable to wear in the heat and I'm enjoying the look with longer fitted shorts.

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    1. That is a serious skill to eyeball fabric content from my crappy photos!!

      I love a woven tank- such a good way to use up a small bit of fabric, be it a scrap or a special or expensive fabric. And great for wearing under cardigans or blazers.

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