Wednesday, September 8, 2021

Plummy Heather Blazer

After a summer of wrap-dress sewing, I'm jump starting my autumn sewing with a blazer!

OK, so it's barely autumn and we still have plenty of time for 90+ degree days... 

And I actually started this blazer back in March, got annoyed with it at my first try-on post-"birthing," let it sit in the closet for five months, and then finally finished it this week when it was getting closer to being more seasonally appropriate...

But autumn sewing nonetheless.

This is the Friday Pattern Co. Heather Blazer (which calls to mind the movie Heathers, and I am not mad about that!). 

The Heather Blazer is an unstructured, but fully lined, blazer with an oversized fit and patch pockets. It's designed for woven fabrics and has a two-piece sleeve. 

The Heather Blazer's size range includes sizes XS/0 - 7X/32 (32”/81cm -60”/152cm chest). XS-XXL were drafted for a B/C cup while 1X-7X were drafted for a C/D cup. 

For my Heather Blazer I cut a size 1X based on my measurements. I wish I had cut a size or two down, and shortened the length, though. While the pattern is designed to be "slightly oversized," I'm finding mine to be very oversized.  

You can really tell from the photos of the back. Check out those enormous folds!

It feels like less of a blazer and more of an overcoat. Which is fine, I guess, because I'll be able to fit lots of layers under there for fall.  However, I was really aiming for a blazer, and that's what I thought I would get based on the pattern samples in the product photos! 

I think this is at least part of the reason why I didn't finish this project for so many months.

The fabric I used is a plum-colored medium- to heavy-weight cotton twill and steel grey rayon bemberg lining that I got from Imagine Gnats several years back (RIP Imagine Gnats, miss you!). 

The cotton has a lovely, soft, brushed feel to it and the lining is nice and silky. 

Speaking of the lining, I'm finding that my lining is a bit saggy, especially at the sleeves, where it peeks out occasionally. Next time I would cut the sleeve lining a little bit shorter to avoid that. 

For now, it seems to be fine if I reach inside the blazer and tug the lining up a bit from the armpit. They sleeves are rolled up once in the photo below, FYI:

I ended up topstitching the lapels. I didn't see any instructions for understitching, so without topstitching I was worried the blazer would look poofy and un-crisp in the lapels. 

The Heather Blazer is supposed to have one button; I haven't added mine yet. I haven't decided on a button yet and am worried about getting a nice buttonhole on this thicker fabric. But I'll mostly wear it unbuttoned anyway, so not a big deal. 

In the end I really like my blazer and think it looks pretty slick despite the size issues. 

I think I have a little bit of a chip on my shoulder about it, though, since it's definitely not what I had in mind, style- and size-wise. 

Next time I sew this I'd like to make it in a lighter weight fabric and smaller size to achieve the Heathers look I was dreaming of!

Paired here with my Free Range Slacks and Torrens Box Top.