Tuesday, October 5, 2021

Stripey Belmore Jacket

Inspired by Muna and Broad's recent outerwear week, I cut out and sewed up this Belmore Jacket on a whim, but I am pretty delighted with it!

The Belmore Jacket is an unlined, boxy jacket that hits at the low hip and is designed to be loose fitting and oversized with dropped shoulders. It has hidden inseam pockets, a collar that slightly extends up the neck, and sleeve facings so you can cuff the sleeves or wear them uncuffed.

I cut a size D (the Belmore comes in sizes A-M, 40"-64" (102-162cm) bust, 41.5"-71.5" (105-182cm) hip), which worked out great. A bit oversized, but I think that's the look. 

For fabric, I used this medium-weight denim I've had in my stash for years. It's from Ikea originally (like 8 years ago?!), and you might remember I used some of it for my scrapbusting floor pouf. I just adore the colorful, couched stripes on the denim. Fun and cheerful and textural. 

I decided I needed to play up the stripes by turning them in different directions on the Belmore Jacket's various panels. I turned the stripes horizontal on the lower bodice and vertical on the upper. 

I painstakingly matched the stripes across the lower front and the collar, but because of fabric constraints, I did not do so well matching across the side seams. You win some, you lose some. 

To simplify things, I removed center back seam on the upper and lower back bodices for a smoother look and less stripe matching.

Per the Belmore pattern, I did Hong Kong binding on all the seam allowances using a green Indonesian batik from my stash that matched one of the stripes on the denim. I also cut the sleeve facings out of that fabric. Fun pop of color on the inside!

I ended up tacking the collar's seam allowance down by stitching in the ditch at the shoulders and front pocket seam because it tended to want to roll outwards with all of those layers and the Hong Kong seam binding. 

This pattern has some really lovely details. I appreciate how the sleeves narrow towards the hems so you don't have that issue of dipping your sleeve in your coffee/breakfast/sink/what have you. 

And the back of the collar is shaped so it sits nice and snug against your neck (unlike some other similar patterns, which have a collar that awkwardly stands away from your neck in the back!). The inseam pockets are really cool looking and are both fun and easy to sew.

I think when I sew this pattern again, I'll use a fabric with a little more drape, but otherwise, pretty chuffed with this jacket!