Sunday, May 10, 2015

Morris!

Finally finished my Morris! I'm not sure why it took me so long to finish it up, as it's a really simple project. Sewjo blockage + long weekend trip = drawn out sewing project.



Anyway, here she is, the Morris Blazer by Grainline Studio. I loved the pattern right off the bat: buttonless, unlined blazers are my jam. I won't wax on too much about how much I love the style because you've probably already seen 97 Morris blazer blog posts in your feed in the past couple weeks do the same.


The fabric is some lovely faux-animal print (the spots are comprised of lots of tiny cross-hatches) stretch cotton sateen that was given to me by the lovely Heather of Heather Grows. She and I, along with Nicole from Pudge and Nico took a cue from Lola and her Sisterhood of Traveling Fabric and decided to do an international fabric swap!

love-lola-traveling-fabric-logo


After some emails back and forth followed by a flurry of snail mail between Bangkok, Ottawa and Austin, I found myself with this killer fabric, as well as some seriously awesome stripey rayon jersey and amazingly soft floral Betsy Johnson jersey, which you will see here soon, once I decide how not to screw them up. I can't wait to see what those two badass ladies make with the fabric I sent them, too! Thank you, Heather and Nicole!


OK, back to Morris:  I had some issues with fit. I don't know if I made a size too small or what (I don't think so, as the body seems fine?), but I had problems with the armscye/armhole and sleeves.

I had to re-cut the sleeves because they were like sausage casings on my arms. Crazy tight. Thankfully Heather sent me plenty of this fabric - even with my screw-up, I still have enough left for a skirt!


With help from Fit for Real People, I made a "full arm" adjustment of about 3/4" and sewed the new sleeves back on:


That helped a bit, enough to make the blazer wearable, but the armscyes/armholes still feel a bit tight. I think I'll need to lower them and/or make a bigger size next time I sew Morris. As is, I can't wear anything but a tank underneath... nothing with sleeves. Anyone have any tips on lowering/widening armscyes? I assume you also have to widen the sleeve to match?


Speaking of sleeves... what are your thoughts on this sleeve length? I feel like I might shorten them a bit next time. Right now they feel neither here nor there... not really full length, not really 3/4 length. I am undecided.


I ended up topstitching the facing down all the way around because, ew, slipstitching. Anyone want free room and board in a sunny apartment in Bangkok in exchange for some hand stitching?


All in all, I think I will love Morris once I get my fitting issues sorted. I can't wait to make it in ponte... I have been eyeing some of the ponte versions popping up on the interwebs: Suzy's colorblocked version, Gillian's polka dots, Hila's mustard. Awesome.


21 comments:

  1. I love that fabric! Since you have so much, I wonder if you could redo the sleeve length so that you'll wear it more? (Just cut a new facing, I mean, and shorten the sleeve.) My sleeves are tight too - had to use a narrow seam allowance to make them fit. For my second version I just adding a bit of width at either edge of the sleeve, which is totally the wrong way to do it... but whatever, it worked fine!
    Your jacket looks great - hope the weather is cool enough to wear it!

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    1. Thanks, Gillian! Glad I'm not the only one with guns that can't be contained by the Morris sleeves ;-) Another facing is a good idea- certainly enough scraps for that without sacrificing another garment!! The Bangkok weather is definitely not cool enough to wear Morris outside, but in AC, it's quite welcome.

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  2. This looks great! I couldn't have picked a better garment for that fabric - I'm so glad this worked out! Bummer about the arms - I'll keep that in mind for when I make it up. Glad you had enough fabric to cut new sleeves though!

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    1. Thanks again for the lovely fabric, Heather! I knew it was meant to be when you sent me this fabric and then Jen published Morris the same week...

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  3. Cooool, that fabric makes a perfect Morris and the fit does look great. I didn't have a problem with the arm width but my fabric was very stretchy!

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    1. Thanks, Katie! Yeah, perhaps it's partially an issue with fabric stretch- this sateen has stretch, but not a crazy amount.

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  4. First, love the fabric. And since I also bought the pattern, of course the jacket. :-)

    Next, since you asked ... I would be careful about lowering the armsyce unless you feel it's really digging into your armpit. Lower armcyes actually restrict movement so you may end up with a sleeve/armhole that is looser but feels tighter. DYKWIM?

    Anyway, I think if I were you, I would just add a bit more to the Big Guns :-) adjustment you already made. And maybe add a bit back onto the sleeve cap too (it's in the book). Measure your Gun, measure the flat pattern. Most of us like about an inch of wearing ease around the bicep in a not-very-stretchy sleeve.

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    1. Thanks for the tips, Debbie! I didn't realize lowering the armscye would restrict movement... ha ha, ok, I will focus on giving the guns more room!

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    2. Debbie,

      Do you think a FBA and perhaps either a narrowed shoulder or a smaller size and FBA would help? I see drag lines where the should falls off. I see this problem in myself with RTW, I have a very full bust.

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  5. Forgot to say WHY to maybe add onto the sleeve cap if you're adding more width. It's because adding the width lowers the sleeve cap and a low sleeve cap also restricts movement somewhat.

    OK. I'm done now. :-)

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    1. Thanks again, Debbie! It never would have occurred to me...

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  6. Looks stunning! Love the fabric! I would consider coming to do your hand stitching!! I made mine in a ponte type knit and found it tight on the top of the arm. I unpicked one arm seam and restitched with a scant seam allowance and it made no difference, so I didn't bother with the other. It's ok, but I can't wear anything with sleeves either. I'll try the adjustment you did I think on my next one.

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  7. I just love your jacket!! What a pretty fabric!

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  8. I love it. Amazing fabric + super-cool pattern = killer jacket.

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  9. I really really love the fabric and the fit is just perfect! Maggie

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  10. I lurk here a lot and don't comment much. I really appreciate your prolific stitching and generous sharing of your makes. I have a similar body type to yours, so seeing patterns on you is so very helpful! This is cute, wearable and hits a spot between casual and dressy.

    My suggestion for the sleeve issue is to use an armhole/armscye shape from a jacket pattern that fits and the sleeve from the jacket that fits. You could modify the new sleeve hem (to narrow or widen) to correspond to the Morris, which could help keep the proportions/design.

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    1. Thanks, Brenda! I should take your advice and lay the armhole pieces over a jacket that fits better next time. Good idea! That said, after wearing this a bunch, I found that the fit relaxed slightly throughout the day because of the stretch in the fabric.

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