Thursday, May 14, 2015

Deer and Doe Brume

More skirts! Lots of skirts for me these days. I think my unjustified pants sewing fear, combined a plethora of cute skirt pattern releases is keeping me firmly in the skirt camp these days. Also, I am apparently into pairing skirts with this striped Bonnie top... maybe it's time to work on another one of those, too.



 This is the Brume by Deer and Doe, a knit pencil skirt with some funky seamlines that I love. The seaming kinda reminds me of a girdle in some ways, but I prefer to think of it as "Batman butt":


My measurements actually put me outside of the size range for this pattern. But having successfully made the largest size in Deer and Doe patterns in the past, I threw caution to the wind and sewed up Brume anyway. The Deer and Doe patterns tend to work for pear shapes and Eleanor even has a full butt adjustment tutorial for Brume on her blog.


I used some black ponte that I got super cheap in Hong Kong, so I figured I would consider this a muslin if my sizing gamble fell flat. Plus my ponte had more than the 30% stretch (more like 40%), which I hoped would help my cause. No sizing problems, in the end, which was quite lucky! The skirt is a bit longer than I anticipated, but that's easily remedied later if I decide to lop off a few inches.


The pattern went together very smoothly. The only place I ran into some trouble was topstitching the yoke seam (the Batman seam)... the pattern calls for topstitching with a twin needle, but here's my question: how are you supposed to topstitch at the two points on the butt where the three pattern pieces meet? You can't exactly put your needle down and pivot with a twin needle. I ended up just sewing all the way to the perpendicular seam, backstitching, cutting the thread and then starting a new stitching line on the other curve. Worked ok, I think... check out my butt:


Next time I make this skirt, I might consider topstitching all of the vertical seams, too, for consistency's sake and because I find fabrics like ponte don't press very crisply, so my un-topstitched seams are not very flat.  I may shorten the shirt a few inches, too. 


 I had to overexpose these photos so you could see the seamlines. I mean, this skirt is all about the seamlines, right? Black is so hard to photograph...


Final verdict on Brume: I'm quite happy it! Lots of potential once I work the little kinks out. I love the potential for colorblocking, like this one at Fifty Two Fancies that I found via Instagram. In the meantime, this one is totally wearable, and maybe even a little bit sexy, methinks. 

17 comments:

  1. It totally looks like Batman butt now that you say it! :) What fun seaming, and how nice to have a knit pencil skirt. I so love the shape of pencil skirts, but the restricted movement is not always great. Knits to the rescue again!

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    1. Ha ha- I think the batman butt is more pronounced in the colorblock version, but glad you see what I am talking about! The skirt is quite comfy and easy to walk in in knit!

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  2. This skirt looks amazing on you!! Effing hot if you don't mind me saying so. The seam lines and length make it very sexy librarian. :) I have the Mabel pattern but I really love those seam lines. So tempting!!

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    1. Thanks so much! I was hoping for hot rather than two pigs fighting under a blanket, which I worried was a distinct possibility!! I love Mabel, too, but I just had to try the fancy seaming in this pattern...

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  3. I hadn't even noticed this pattern on the Deer & Doe website. I went back to look and now I know why - their photos didn't speak to me at all. They don't do anything for the models IMO. But your version is awesome and may have put the skirt on my post-baby sewing list. I think it is very flattering on you. (And I think you should keep it long - it looks great that way).

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    1. I agree! The D&D photo shoot for this pattern is not great- the longer version has a weird early '90s grunge/waif thing going on. You have to do some creative thinking to see how nice the pattern is.

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  4. Your Batman butt is rocking that skirt!

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  5. That's great! I love the pattern but wasn't sure if I was going to invest in it, but I think you just sold me on it.

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  6. Ooh, I love the longer length! It looks awesome. The whole pivoting-with-a-twin-needle thing stumped me too, so I sewed right to the edge of each panel and then pulled the threads through to the wrong side and tied them off. It means I have little diamonds where the topstitching intersects, but I decided I could live with that!

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    1. Good idea to pull the threads through- I was worried back stitching would make a mess, I think I just lucked out!

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    2. You can't literally pivot, but I tend to just remove the needle, pivot the fabric, then re-insert one needle where there's already a stitch, then keep sewing. Has worked alright for me!

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  7. I think this is super sexy and it looks fantastic on you! I agree the seam lines look like garters, but I too perfer "Batman butt"! LOL I love this one at this length for something different, but you could always get away with a bit shorter length too. I love your Bonnie still too!

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    1. Thanks, lady! I will be thinking to myself "I'm Batman" every time I wear this skirt ;-)

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  8. That is a cute, cute skirt! Classic with a twist -- so useful!

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    1. Thanks, Helena! Yep, love a pencil skirt- it's a great wardrobe staple!

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