Friday, June 5, 2015

Dude Sewing: Linen Jutland Shorts


Shorts! Tim had a request for new shorts, which coincided with this year's Shorts on the Line competition/celebration over at Imagine Gnats and Kollabora. Kismet, I tell you.



I made Tim a short version of Thread Theory's Jutland Pants, the more relaxed fit of their two men's pants patterns.  I treated this pair as sort of a wearable muslin, both because I wasn't sure how they would fit and I wasn't confident in my zip fly insertion skillz.


Overall, we're both pretty happy with the fit of the Jutlands! He wore them out the day I finished them, so that's good, right?  I'll definitely make a few little fitting tweaks next time, namely:

- Curve the back waistband a bit: it's quite straight, and since Tim has a butt, there is some gaping in the back.

- Use a smaller seam allowance for a few inches in the hip area right where the pockets attach to the side seams: there is a teeny bit of pulling right there, especially if he puts stuff in his pockets (which is inevitable). You can kinda see the pulling in some of the photos- horizontal pull lines.

- Fix a little bit of weirdness I have at the bottom of the fly: I don't know what I did, but there's something wrong where the fly facing/extension meets the crotch seam. You can't really tell when he's wearing them, but I know it's there!

- Finish/serge all of the crotch seams before installing the zipper, because when I tried to do it after the fact it was disaster.


Now that we know the Jutland fit is good, I may make him the pants, too!


This time I opted for the patch pockets in the back for more casual shorts, but I am determined to try to make welt pockets at some point, particularly if I make him the Jutland pants. Maybe I should do some practice pockets on scrap fabric first, though.


The fabric I used is some linen-y stuff I got in Hong Kong- I also used it for my Hollyburn skirt a few months ago. For the waistband facing and the pockets I used some cotton lawn scraps leftover from a Made by Rae Josephine blouse I made my mom (not yet blogged):


Have you made the Jutland pants, or any of the mens' patterns from Thread Theory? Planning on it? 

18 comments:

  1. They look great on him! My husband has been asking me to make him some shorts, and he really loves linen so I was thinking of pairing this pattern with some navy linen-viscose I bought from Caroline at Blackbird Fabrics. But, I wasn't sure how it would look in the linen, even though I know it's listed as one of the recommended fabrics. But after seeing this, I think it will definitely work! I'll show him this post to see if he approves, haha!

    For the fly-front--could you use the Ginger instructions/sewalong when making this pattern? I thought those were pretty clear and helpful, so maybe that would help you out?

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    1. I totally should have used the Ginger jeans instructions! I found those instructions to be pretty foolproof. I'll use those on my next pair of Jutlands.

      I bet linen-viscose would be perfect for the Jutland pattern- I hope your husband approves!!

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    2. I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one struggling with those zipper instructions. Must finish the Jedediah soon, but on 4th attempt I put them on the UFO pile. And hubby is already demanding...

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    3. Yeah, my zip definitely works and looks ok, but there's a little bit of strangeness that I couldn't figure out using the Jutland instructions.

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    4. I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one struggling with those zipper instructions. Must finish the Jedediah soon, but on 4th attempt I put them on the UFO pile. And hubby is already demanding...

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  2. Oooooh awesome!! What a great fit! My husband has been wanting jeans and shorts, and I have Jedediah, but I am afraid it might be too slim for him - so Jutland might be the answer...

    And I second Nicole's Ginger Jeans suggestion for the zip fly - I love it! I think I'll probably use it for any pattern that has a zip fly from now on (sort of like always using Andrea/Four Square Wall's collar tutorial!).

    And I've made the Strathcona henley and the Newcastle cardigan for my husband - but I found the henley to be a bit too slim, and now I use McCalls 6973 for t-shirts.

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    1. That was my exact thought re: Jutland vs Jedediah. I might have to size up for Jedediah now that I see how the Jutland fits!

      I will definitely use the Ginger fly zip instructions for my next pair- I don't know why I didn't think of that, considering it's the only other successful zip fly I've ever done!

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  3. These are great!!! I actually have this pattern, but I'm super intimidated by the zip fly and just sewing for my husband in general because he's very particular (gee, can't think where Joe got it from ...?), but yours are so great I might have to give them a try finally! Starting with shorts is a great idea - less fabric for one!

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    1. My thoughts exactly- I started with wearable muslin shorts because they use less fabric, so if they were a total bust I wouldn't have wasted too much.

      You can do the zip fly- it's not as tough as you think. Just lots of little steps.

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  4. The shorts look great - so inspiring! I may need to make a pair for my husband too!

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    1. Thanks, Fiona! You should give them a try!

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  5. I haven't seen this pattern before and they look like shorts my husband would really like. I definitely want to give them a try at some point. Yours really look great!

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    1. Thanks, Teri! I think it's a pretty great pattern- lots of options for casual or dressier pants (or shorts!). Highly recommend.

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  6. These look amazing Meg - the fit looks pretty much perfect to me! Between you and Katie, I am feeling like I am not doing nearly enough dude sewing! I think these could totally count with your trouser sewing dare too - all the components are there!

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    1. Thanks, Heather! I supposed these do count towards my dare- although I think pants fitting on men is easier than women- less curvy!

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  7. Great shorts! Hopefully I'll sew something like that for my husband one day, polo shirts are priority for now.

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    1. Thanks!! I actually just bought a polo shirt pattern for my husband- Jalie 3137. What pattern are you using?

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  8. They look great Meg, and congrats on the Sew Mama Sew feature. I have the Jedediah pattern but haven't used it yet but I think my bloke will much prefer the Jutland fit. Guess I need to buy more patterns!

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