Friday, September 8, 2017

Testing, testing: True Bias Lander Pant


I was a tester for the latest True Bias pattern, the Lander pant and short and I've got my tester version to share today!


I love the utilitarian look of the Lander pattern's pockets (including those "pork chop pockets" in the front... thanks for letting me know the name, Kisha!), the high waist, the wide legs and the exposed button fly. You can read more about Kelli's unusual inspiration for these pants in her introductory blog post.


I obviously went for View C, the full length pant. The Lander pattern also comes with options for shorts and a cropped pant, too. All are very stylish, but also decidedly wearable and practical!


Since my butt can be hard to fit, I made a couple muslins of the top half of the pant during testing to make sure the crotch fit was right before cutting into my fabric. I ended up extending the front and back crotch to give myself some more room, and Kelli ultimately incorporated similar changes into the final pattern.


The Lander pattern calls for medium- to heavy-weight non-stretch fabrics. I went with a delightfully soft, heavy-weight, brushed cotton twill. The outside is like velvet and the inside feels more like regular twill. 


I bought it during a visit to a fabric shop in my hometown that I haven't been to in ages: Osgood's Textiles. I have very fond memories of going there as a kid with my mom and running through the aisles, overstuffed with rolls of fabric. I wasn't disappointed when I returned as an adult; lots of apparel fabric gems to be found at this store (my 6 year old niece for scale, holding my twill, hamming it up, and wearing a dress I made her):



In retrospect, this twill may have been a bit too heavy for the Lander. It's looking a bit clunky in these photos. That said, I think the twill will help keep me warm in the winter! Arg, fabric choice can be tough sometimes. Maybe my choice of top is also contributing to this heavy feeling, too. If I paired it with a boxy cropped sweater, perhaps it would jive better. And now off to make myself a boxy cropped sweater...


These pants are a straight size 18 and are a little bit big. I muslined the size 16, which seemed too small, and even my muslin of the 18 was a much closer fit than these; I think the twill has more mechanical stretch to it than my heavy-weight muslin did, especially after a few minutes of wear.  Next time I will increase the back waist darts and use a slightly more curved size 16 waistband to keep the pants from sliding down and eliminate a tiny bit of waistband gape I have at the back.


I also used a slightly smaller hem then Kelli provided for. It's quite a deep 3" hem, but I did a 1.5" hem to wear the pants with my high-heeled clog/boot things. The Lander pattern is drafted for 5'5" height and I am 5'7". Maybe I should have left it higher, though. I like how the sample Lander pants hang on Kelli's model here, with no "break" at the hem. I may re-hem this pair with a deeper hem to get that sleek look!


As I did for my Thea pants, I opted to bind all of the inner seams on this pair of Lander pants... lots of work, but so worth it. It makes me smile every time I see these neat innards! I also used the same quilting cotton fabric (an Alexander Henry print from Joann Fabric) for the lining of the porkchop pockets. Such a cheerful detail!


I really love these pants and can't wait to make another pair! I've already picked out the fabric for my next pair: an organic cotton twill in a rich plum color, from Organic Cotton Plus! It's the same weight as the Ventana twill Kelli used for her Lander samples, so I'm hoping it will work out well! 


39 comments:

  1. Love the pants. I'm not sure what you are referring to with the heavy feeling. I think they look perfect!

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    1. Thanks, Andie! I think they just feel a bit stiff or something. But it may be that I've been wearing summer clothes for 6 years and now I have to get used to heavier weight fabrics!

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  2. Wow! These look great Meg. I love your color choice...they would look great with an ivory ( maybe lace?) cropped top as well!

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    1. Thanks, Margo! Ooh- that could look nice, too. I've got some ivory ponte that might work.

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  3. Awesome! I bought the pattern last night and wondered how they fit, you have very similar measurements to mine and they look great! So glad it's Friday so I can work on them this weekend!

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    1. Thanks! Good luck with yours! I hope you like the pattern!

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  4. Love those pants, especially the detailing--and the innards!

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    1. Thanks! I am really proud of how those insides turned out!!

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  5. They look great on you meg. Very tempted by this pattern but not sure what would you wear them with (on top) for winter? Already proper autumnal over here...

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    1. Here, too! Pretty chilly.

      Hmm... I am still figuring out the styling, too! I only have a small portion of my wardrobe with me right now, so I was limited in what I paired with it.

      I think they would look good with a cropped and boxy sweater or sweatshirt. Heidi paired hers with a cropped Linden and it looked really cute: http://www.handmade-frenzy.com/2017/09/lander-pants-sewing-for-women.html

      Or perhaps a flowy blouse, partially tucked in to show off the button fly? Like the Roscoe or a pussy bow blouse or something?

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    2. Or maybe a slim fitting turtleneck sweater, tucked in?

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  6. Great job on the fit! Pork chop pockets--who knew? The button fly is such a nice detail too and a great alternative for anyone intimidated by fly fronts zips.

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    1. I had never heard that term, either, but I love it! The button fly is quite cute- and so quick, too!

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  7. Really nice fit and beautiful work! I'm not sure about that wide a leg - maybe I'm still stuck in the skinny jeans mindset. However, it's an easy fix, and the rest of the pant features are interesting.

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    1. Thanks! You could definitely "skinny-fy" these and it would be really cute!

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  8. Looking mighty fine Meg! Those innards are swoon worthy.

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    1. Thanks, Sue! I love the pop of color on the inside!

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  9. I impulsively bought this pattern this week—it's kind of my dream pant style. I've got some maroon corduroy that I'm going to use.
    I'm headed to Northampton in a couple weeks and thinking about working a visit to Osgood into my plans. Sounds like you recommend it?

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    1. Ooooh- the Lander will be fabulous in corduroy!

      Definitely stop by Osgood- it is really fabulous! Double-check their hours, though, because I believe they are not open on Saturdays.

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  10. The pants look great. I too love the color. I have a pair that, are very similar, the color, the wide leg and pork-chop pockets, they don't have the button fly but a zipper and no pockets on back. I love them in winter with boots in the snow. I love your innards, they are cheerful and tidy. A great inspiration. Thanks Meg!

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    1. Thanks, Barb! I think I will be happy to have these warm pants in the winter. And since they're a teeny bit big, I'll be able to layer in some long underwear if necessary!

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  11. Quite honestly I don't see the 'chunky' whatever that you do. It's a great change from skinny's and you did a great job. After seeing yours I'm going to get the pattern. The colorful binding inside is so pretty. Well done!

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    1. Thanks so much! I think it's just I'm not used to the heavier weight fabrics after wearing tropical weight rayons and such for the past 6 years!

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  12. I am looking for a pattern like this. Thanks for the write up. I think they look super and a great fit at the back. jo x

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  13. Oh yeah baby! I LOVE this pant silhouette! I think they look fabulous on you, and when the weather gets really chilly, you'll love the weight of that twill. Once again you brought a pattern to my attention that I promptly went and bought..... Thank you! This is the shape I want to wear this Winter, and while I had a Mccalls pattern that is close (and I still may try- 7445) these puppies have the length I(we) need for cold NE Winters.... Woohoo! Loving all the pants patterns showing up these days. Think these would pair nicely with the new Grainline Hadley....

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    1. Thanks!! I think it's true- I'll definitely appreciate the weight of the fabric more in a few months!

      Can't wait to see your Landers!

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    2. PS: I think Hadley would be a great pairing- good idea! The Hadley is kinda cropped in the front (at least on me), so it would pair well with the high-waisted pant and show off those buttons and pockets!

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    3. Exactly, the high-low hem, and the volume in the back, I think Hadley (which I haven't even muslined yet- but intend to soon) would be a good match for the Landers.... I love it when whole outfits magically appear in my head.

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  14. They look amazing! I love the buttons.

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  15. Is the waistband straight or contoured?

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  16. I just bought the pattern today. Can't wait to stitch them up! I absolutely love the idea of binding the seams with colorful printed cotton. It makes these pants very special.

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  17. I love these pants on you and I'm looking for a cute pants pattern that I can sew up in November for the Monthly Stitch Challenge. I'm not really convinced that these pants will look anywhere near as good on me as they do on you, but I think I will give it a try anyway. Haven't sewed any pants since the late '60's so this is truly a challenge in oh so many ways.

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