Thursday, September 14, 2017

Sample Sewing: Grainline Hadley

Last month I was busy sewing up sample garments for classes I was to teach at Nido this fall. I already shared my Linden with you, but this is my sample version of the newest from Grainline Studios, the Hadley top


Now that Nido is closing up shop (insert weeping emoji here), I won't be teaching the Hadley class, but figured I'd share my sample here anyway.


The Hadley top is a full blouse with a high-low hem, bust darts and lovely faced hem. This is View A, which has a jewel neck, a pleat at the back neckline, and bracelet length sleeves. 


I used an unbleached, quilting weight cotton from the shop, a coral colored pindot from Cotton + Steel, part of Melody Miller's Kicks line. I was worried it might be too stiff for the Hadley, but I think it's just barely made the cut because of how delightfully soft that unbleached cotton becomes once you've washed it.


There are some great details on the Hadley: faced hem (my favorite!), faced sleeve cuffs, lovely back pleat. The high-low hem is fairly dramatic. There is a lot of topstitching: on both sides of the center front and back seams, on the hem and sleeve facings. As such, I opted to use a contrasting thread on this sample to show off the details! 


I think the fit is pretty decent. This is a size 16. I didn't have to do a full bicep adjustment to the sleeves, which was great. The sleeves are long on me, though. Definitely not bracelet length. Next time I'll shorten those by an inch or inch and a half to get them to regular length; to get to bracelet length, I think I'd have to take three inches off.


There is a split at the back neck, secured by a hand sewn hook and eye. I noticed, when trying on the top, that I can easily fit the top over my head without opening the hook and eye. As such, I'd be inclined to sew all the way up the center back seam and leave off the split and hook next time. Less fiddly and a sleeker look, I think. I also don't love the feel of the hook at the back of my neck.


I am fairly pleased with this top. I think it would make a great first or second garment for a student. It has a lot of techniques to practice (facings! understitching! topstitching! setting sleeves!) and results in a very wearable top. 


I may make another Hadley for myself, but I think I need to make some sort of bust adjustment before I do so- you can see some pulling around the bust/armpits. I'll have to wait until my shipment arrives with my trusty Fit for Real People to diagnose further (unless you all have some sage words for me!).

 I also think that if I make it again, I'll go with something more drapey - maybe a rayon challis? Or a drapey plaid shirting? I haven't quite decided. 


What do you think about the Hadley? 

32 comments:

  1. I think it looks lovely on you but I'd do an fba. That will als leg then then front a bit as well. I always feel the high low thing emphasises the need for an fba so if I were making this for me I would level out the front and back to eliminate it. But each to his own:)

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    1. If I make it again, I'll definitely do an FBA! I actually like the high/low hem thing, but am not in love with the pulling I have on the front.

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  2. I like the proportions! With an FBA and shorter sleeves, it would be a winner! And that colour is gorgeous on you!

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    1. Thanks! I think with those changes, plus closing up the back neckline and using a fabric with more drape, this could be a winner!

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  3. Interesting! I hadn't paid much attention to the pattern before but I think it would be a fantastic fall top in a drapey challis. I love the color you picked.

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    1. Thanks! It would definitely be fabulous in rayon.

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  4. Whoops, I had more to say. There's no bust dart, right? I'd definitely do an FBA to add a dart. Then Hadley+challis would be great for fall.

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    1. There is a dart, but it's not very wide. I'll try an FBA if I make this again.

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  5. You might be able to find a copy of Fit for Real People at the local library... my small town had that plus pants for real people. Lovely color! And so sorry to hear about your local store...

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    1. Thanks! And good idea! I actually don't have a library card yet because I need a local driver's license first... arg, moving sucks.

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  6. I made this top and the sleeves are very long!! Planning to make the sleeveless version. I downsided from 14 to a 12, did a FBA and lengthened the top slightly. Your top looks lovely and the colour suits you.

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    1. I'm glad I'm not the only one who found the arms long. They're long on the Archer, too, in my size.

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  7. Gorgeous colour and agree that a FBA is needed, but gee those sleeves are very long.

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    1. Thanks! Definitely will FBA if I make it again, and shorten the sleeves!

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  8. It's very cute but I must admit I'm more drawn to the sleeveless view...

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    1. I love the v-neck version and would like to try that one. This was the view we were going to make in the class, so for my sample I wanted to stick to that.

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  9. I am so loving this top ... FIESTA ;)

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  10. I agree that an FBA is needed. The color is terrific on you and it is a cute top.

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  11. So pretty! I love the color and the contrast stitching. Think I'll try this one, shorten the sleeves a touch, and lengthen the whole shirt just a bit. It looks so comfy.

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    1. Thanks! I like how the contrast stitching turned out, too! I'll shorten the sleeves next time, too.

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  12. I like the shirt! Love the fabric and the color. It looks really good on you!! I too would shorten the sleeves a lot ( can't stand long sleeves getting into everything) and maybe make it longer. Yeah its Saturday! :)

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    1. Thanks! I agree, sleeves need to be shortened a bit so they don't dip into things!

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  13. I'd say before you do a FBA, maybe sew one up in something more drapy....? Although an FBA would be pretty simple to do. Shorten the sleeves, sew up the back, and I still think that's a great top for high-waisted pants!

    Sorry about Nido closing, that's bad timing for you....

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    1. Yeah, Nido closing is sad, but it sounds like the craft night group may continue to meet, and it was the community aspect of it that I was most sad about losing!

      A drapey fabric will definitely help the blouse hang better, but I don't know if it will help the pulling at the bust. We shall see!

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  14. I just arrived back at my hotel after fabric shopping in China Town. Your directions are impeccable and made the trip simple and fun! Thanks again for the detail and time put into your Bangkok Fabric Shopping Guide. It is most useful - I'm already looking forward to another fabric run on my next trip to Thailand!!

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    1. Fabulous! I'm so glad you used the directions and had a good time! I hope you found some great deals and had some adventures!

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