Thursday, September 14, 2017

Sample Sewing: Grainline Hadley

Last month I was busy sewing up sample garments for classes I was to teach at Nido this fall. I already shared my Linden with you, but this is my sample version of the newest from Grainline Studios, the Hadley top

Now that Nido is closing up shop (insert weeping emoji here), I won't be teaching the Hadley class, but figured I'd share my sample here anyway.

The Hadley top is a full blouse with a high-low hem, bust darts and lovely faced hem. This is View A, which has a jewel neck, a pleat at the back neckline, and bracelet length sleeves. 

I used an unbleached, quilting weight cotton from the shop, a coral colored pindot from Cotton + Steel, part of Melody Miller's Kicks line. I was worried it might be too stiff for the Hadley, but I think it's just barely made the cut because of how delightfully soft that unbleached cotton becomes once you've washed it.

There are some great details on the Hadley: faced hem (my favorite!), faced sleeve cuffs, lovely back pleat. The high-low hem is fairly dramatic. There is a lot of topstitching: on both sides of the center front and back seams, on the hem and sleeve facings. As such, I opted to use a contrasting thread on this sample to show off the details! 

I think the fit is pretty decent. This is a size 16. I didn't have to do a full bicep adjustment to the sleeves, which was great. The sleeves are long on me, though. Definitely not bracelet length. Next time I'll shorten those by an inch or inch and a half to get them to regular length; to get to bracelet length, I think I'd have to take three inches off.

There is a split at the back neck, secured by a hand sewn hook and eye. I noticed, when trying on the top, that I can easily fit the top over my head without opening the hook and eye. As such, I'd be inclined to sew all the way up the center back seam and leave off the split and hook next time. Less fiddly and a sleeker look, I think. I also don't love the feel of the hook at the back of my neck.

I am fairly pleased with this top. I think it would make a great first or second garment for a student. It has a lot of techniques to practice (facings! understitching! topstitching! setting sleeves!) and results in a very wearable top. 

I may make another Hadley for myself, but I think I need to make some sort of bust adjustment before I do so- you can see some pulling around the bust/armpits. I'll have to wait until my shipment arrives with my trusty Fit for Real People to diagnose further (unless you all have some sage words for me!).

 I also think that if I make it again, I'll go with something more drapey - maybe a rayon challis? Or a drapey plaid shirting? I haven't quite decided. 

What do you think about the Hadley?