Sunday, October 19, 2014

Perfect Pattern Parcel #6: Hudson Pant and Julia Cardigan

Doooods: This Pattern Parcel is so killer. I mean, all the Parcels are pretty awesome, but I found this one to be particularly great.  I mean, I already owned 2 of the patterns and was considering buying at least 2 of the others... so that says something. At least something about how style-y I think this Perfect Pattern Parcel is!!

Here's what's included in this Pattern Parcel for tha lay-deez:

Pattern Parcel #6: Choose your own price and support DonorsChoose. Win/win!

Syrah Skirt by Lauren Dahl (exclusive release!)
Bronte Top by Jennifer Lauren
Julia Cardigan by Mouse House Creations
Hudson Pant by True Bias
Zsalya Dress by Kate and Rose
BONUS PATTERN: Odette Dress by Bluegingerdoll

I'm sure you remember how Perfect Pattern Parcel works, but here's a reminder of its indie-supporting, charitable awesomeness:

Here at Perfect Pattern Parcel, we believe in supporting independent pattern designers. It’s our opinion that indie patterns are just, well, better than big box patterns, and we’re pretty sure our customers think so too. So, we allow customers to show their support in naming their own price for each Parcel. We also encourage customers to allocate part of their Parcel price to the charity in order to help classrooms in need. Pattern Parcel donates all profits after expenses from Parcel sales to the charity as well. Together we've raised over $12,000 for classrooms in need!

Pattern Parcel #6: Choose your own price and support DonorsChoose. Win/win

My True Bias Hudson pants: I was a tester for this pattern and it was love at first sight. After making my first pair, I immediately vowed to make another. I wear my first pair regularly, although mostly in the comfort of my air-conditioned home because it is hot hot hot in Bangkok where I live, and even my thin jersey Hudsons are a bit sticky. So this time I wanted to make the from the flowiest, breeziest fabric known to man: rayon challis. Especially after seeing Kelli's gorgeous rayon challis Hudsons, I knew the fabric and pattern would be a match made in heaven.

My challis is a pretty splotchy number from, which is no longer available, probably because I bought approximately 97 yards of it (ok, 6) when it was on sale this summer. I cut the pocket detail, waistband and calf cuff all from jersey (same black jersey I used for my Back in Black Moneta).

My construction notes:

I cut one size bigger than my original Hudson to account for stretch v. woven (Kelli suggests 2 sizes up, but since my first pair was a little bit big, I figured 1 size was ok). I'm stuck with the cropped version because it's the most practical during Bangkok's rainy season. Longer pants would just get soaked while sloshing around on the mean streets of BKK.

Since I generally like to remove as much bulk from the hip area as possible, I decided to make this pair of Hudson with one-layer pockets. A mini-tutorial below!

1. Finish the pocket edge on the pant front piece with the pocket detail: fold the pocket detail in half lengthwise, lay it on the right side of the pant front (raw edges together), serge it on, stretching just slightly (the pocket detail may be longer than the pocket edge), press up, top stitch seam allowance to front pant piece:

2. Cut out only the main pocket piece, not the pocket facing and serge/finish the curved edge of the main pocket piece

3. Lay the main pocket piece right side to the wrong side of the front pant piece, matching notches, baste the edges and sew the curved portion of the pocket directly to the pant front (stitches will show on the front of the pants), using your serged edge as a guide:

Ta da!:

My calf bands were a bit loose on my first Hudsons (partially because the french terry I used had literally zero recovery), so I ended up shaving about an inch off of each and just stretching them to fit the bottom of the pant legs. I also narrowed the band slightly so it was equal to the width of the waistband.  I skipped the drawstring in favor of a sleeker front in case I don't feel like tucking in my top.

Verdict: I loooooooove them. Even more than my first pair. Flowy, comfy, fun. Gah. So good.

Now, the Julia cardigan, by Mouse House Creations: I thought this fun, casual, cocoon-like cardigan would be a good match for the Hudson pants.

I sewed my Julia in some thin, slinky slub knit from Girl Charlee. Looks like they're out of black, but they've still got some in teal! With some careful cutting I was able to use 2 yards of the slub knit with a little bit left over. Turns out it's hard to photograph this slinky black jersey:

I went for the extended cap sleeve version with the doubled-over hem because I knew this slinky knit would be difficult to hem.

Sewing-wise: super easy to put together, particularly if you have a serger. You can just zip up all the seams and never touch the sewing machine. I did get a little confused about which direction my collar pieces were supposed to go, but that was totally user error: I forgot to mark them correctly.

Verdict: a cute, very comfortable staple piece! I'd be interested to sew it up in a thicker, more stable knit for a completely different look.

There's my Perfect Pattern Parcel outfit! Get yourself Parcel #6 and start filling your wardrobe with these awesome and versatile pieces while also supporting a great cause.