Thursday, September 9, 2021

Speckled Linen Tarawi Shirt

To me, fall means shirts and cozy sweaters. 

Since I'm a failed sweater knitter (currently have three knit and crochet sweaters in the works, all of which have one or fewer sleeves), I'll focus my energy on shirtmaking. 

I'd really like to make myself some new flannel shirts this autumn, because, well, Vermont. Gotta rep the brand.

This was my wearable muslin of the new Muna and Broad Tarawi Shirt pattern. I’m hoping this pattern will work well in the plaid flannels in my stash!

I cut my Tarawi in a size E, with the 2+ chest option (meaning 2-3 inches of difference between high and full bust). I opted for the regular (as opposed to narrow) neck and regular (as opposed to narrow) sleeve options. 

I'm pretty happy with the sleeve fit, which makes sense since I often do full bicep adjustments. It's definitely roomy. Sleeve length was perfect, too. 

But I think I might try the narrow neck option next time. I'm finding it a little roomy, although the pattern does say "The Tarawi is designed to have a generous neck fit that looks great buttoned or unbuttoned. When buttoned, the collar will not sit flush with the neck." 

So maybe I'm overthinking it, or just used to a closer fitting neck! For reference, I can pull the shirt over my head without unbuttoning the collar stand button.

While I'm happy with the shoulder and bust fit, next time I'll size down at the hip to a size D, as I ended up ultimately slimming down to size D measurements. 

That's on point with the measurements chart; I should have sized down according to the chart, but that's not something I typically do so I couldn't quite wrap my head around it and opted for the straight size despite clear instructions to do otherwise.

On the pockets: first off, after chatting with Leila, it was determined that I accidentally cut the larger pockets because I misread the instructions! But I don't mind the larger size at all. 

Regarding pocket placement, I ended up moving the pockets outwards towards the side seams by about 3/8 inch and upwards by about 1/2 inch for a "perkier" look. 

The fabric is a speckled yarn dyed Essex cotton/linen blend, purchased locally at a quilt shop. I love the tomato red color, and the textural black, white and royal blue speckles. 

I had 3 yards, and it's narrow, so I cut flat and played it fast and loose with cutting some pieces on the crossgrain. 

I finished my hem with bias tape to maintain length and get a smooth finish on the curves- I find I get the neatest results with bias tape.

I went with pearl snaps for this shirt... I love pearl snaps, and hammering them in is pretty satisfying during these "unprecented times." Except that one last snap on the under pocket which resisted my efforts not once, not twice, but three times. I gave up. Luckily the pearl part attached, just not the back. So it's not functional, but still looks nice. 

Placement-wise I started with locating a snap at my fullest bust point and then aligned them from there using my torture device, I mean, my Simflex sewing gauge thingy

So, to sum all this up: I love my Tarawi shirt. It's comfy, cute, cheerful and has nice details. 

Will I make different sizing choices on my next one? Probably, yes. I'm curious about sizing down all around to a D, narrow neck, narrow sleeve. Or maybe just the neck and sleeves. I'm also curious to try a plainer, non-gusseted pocket. We shall see!