Friday, August 12, 2016

Batik Print Mixing: McCall's 6044

I've got a whole list of fun things to make for Tim (a blazer, a workout top, some pants, a couple of buttondown shirts), but I keep coming back to this pattern for him...

I've made McCall's 6044 so many times now (this is my sixth time!) that I feel like I can practically make it in my sleep. Because I got the fit issues worked out a long time ago, it's a quick and satisfying sew. The short sleeved version is particularly fast! It's easier to make one of these than work out the fit issues on those other patterns I have in the queue... 

Tim brought home this great piece of batik from his last business trip to Jakarta (head to Thamrin City mall if you're in the city and on the hunt for batik), so I decided to whip him up a McCall's 6044 from it. It was a challenge because of the short length, directional print (stylized clouds) and the border print on both ends of the piece. A double double border, actually, because each border has two prints in it, a stripe and a geometric design!

I couldn't fit the bodice pieces and the sleeves on the main print, so I decided to turn the sleeves on the side to cut them out of the borders. This means the clouds are sideways for that one small bit of the main print at the sleeve cap, but I don't think anyone's looking that closely, except maybe you guys. And it kinda almost looks like dropped shoulders a bit:

I used the border on the other side for the two button bands, cutting one from each of the prints. I was able to eke out one of the collar stands from the border, too, in between the button bands. I put that collar stand on the inside. The other collar stand and two collar pieces came from the main print. Pattern Tetris!!

This is a lot of pattern mixing for Tim; he kinda freaked out when he saw the sleeves. I ended up cutting a little bit over an inch off off the bottom before hemming them. Somehow the print was more palatable for him when the sleeve was shorter. 

 I love it, though, and loved making it. It's lots of fun to play with these prints and I adore the little peeks of stripe at the top and bottom of the button band.

 In the end, I think he likes it, too! He has little imagination when it comes to picturing how a partially made garment will look once finished, which I always forget (sorry, Tim, but your strengths lie elsewhere). When I show him the work in process, he tends to question it and worry that it looks weird. Note to self: keep your WIPs to yourself.

It's definitely a wild-er shirt than the 6044s I've made him in the past, more Margaritaville than his typical style. But he gets a ton of wear (and compliments!) out of his other batik version (which is now getting faded from wear), so I thought he was ready for another one. 

He also travels to Indonesia a lot and this type of shirt can be worn to meetings and in casual settings there (and here in Bangkok, to a certain extent), so despite its crazy look, it's actually a wardrobe workhorse!

I also love that I used pretty much the entire piece of batik- really nothing but scraps left over here! I am also delighted to be able to take advantage of the beautiful border print. Indonesian style is a bit bolder with print mixing than I typically am, but they do it really well. It would have been a waste to not use this amazing border! Incredibly satisfying!