Tuesday, March 28, 2017

Style Maker Fabrics Spring Style: Seersucker Style Arc Juliet Shirt

I've got a second project from the Style Maker Fabrics spring style collection for you!

I couldn't limit myself to just one fabric from the Style Maker Fabrics spring collection... in addition to the gorgeous rayon challis I used for my kimono, I also grabbed a few yards of this blue and white seersucker shirting, which is classic and crisp, as well as easy to sew. Perfect for spring and summer!

I'll be honest: my initial associations with seersucker are not good. I tend to think of old partners in white shoe law firms and villains in '80s movies (think James Spader in Pretty in Pink) . But combine seersucker with a modern pattern like the Style Arc Juliet Woven Shirt, and I think the look leans more Duckie (in that it's stylin') and Andie (in that it's handmade).

I went with size 16 for the Juliet shirt. However, I made a grave error in choosing my size. Although I have successfully sewn a size 16 in many Style Arc garments, I underestimated the lack of ease at the hip/bum in this particular pattern. It's very straight through the hip. I could barely close the bottom buttons. The top is ok, although maybe the teensiest bit too tight. I think I have put on some lbs in recent months, so that may be a contributing factor, but the hip situation is more than just a few lbs.

To compensate, I raised the side slits to accommodate my bum; but next time I will definitely grade up a size or two at the hip! Speaking of the side slits, the hem situation is a little bit strange- the instructions didn't make sense to me and I could figure out the side slit situation, so I just winged it.

While I'm making adjustments to the pattern, I might raise the waist tie ever so slightly next time for my high waist. I feel like it's hitting me at the wide part of my belly, not the small part above it. I'll have to figure out how to do that, but perhaps it just entails shortening the bodice below the bust but above the waist tie.

I used the collar tutorial from Four Square Walls to guide me through the collar. No matter how many collared shirts I've made (a lot!), I always go back to this tutorial. My collar are not perfect, but they are by far the neatest when I use this tutorial.

I cut the button band and cuffs on the crossgrain for a little bit of stripey interest and I interfaced only half the button band and cuffs, and one of the collar and collar stand pieces. I should have added a strip of interfacing to the button band on the left side of the shirt; it's strange that the pattern didn't call for it, frankly. So the buttons are supported only by two layers of fabric and no interfacing...

As far as construction goes, the waist tie on the right side is a little bit tricky, but not impossible. The pattern piece looks crazy, but in the end, you are really just folding it over on itself, sewing a dart and sewing the tie together.

So, to sum up: this shirt is not perfect, but I'll still wear it. The fabric is great and I love the style of the pattern, so it's worth tweaking to get the fit right! 

Check out all the other gals on the tour; there have been some really stunning projects so far!

Spring Style Blog Tour Line Up | Style Maker Fabrics

3/20 3/21 | 3/22 | 3/23 | 3/24 | 3/25 | 3/26 | 3/27 3/28 | 3/29 | 3/30 | 3/31