Monday, April 23, 2018

Linen Blend Hvar Jacket

After my first, (very) wearable muslin version of the Itch to Stitch Hvar jacket, I knew I would be making another... 

Plus, I wanted to join in the Curvy Year of Sewing fun at the Curvy Sewing Collective. Have a look at my review of the Hvar pattern over there today!

I had previously made a Hvar in plaid suiting, which I love. I really wanted a solid colored version, though, so here it is!

I love this unlined, cropped, waterfall collar jacket. It's incredibly easy to sew, but has some real drama in that collar. I love how versatile the pattern is, too. I think the cropped length means it's great with high-waisted pants (like the No. 7 Vanløse pants I'm wearing in these photos), but can be layered over a dress, with jeans, etc.

I didn't make any fit changes from my original Hvar. So this is still a straight size 14 with a 1" full bicep adjustment.

My original Hvar was intended to be a wearable muslin, so I just used my serger to finish the seam allowances, which made it really quick to sew. 

This time, though, I wanted to make the seam finishes a bit more professional, so I used bias tape I had left over from last summer when I bound the seams on two pairs of pants (Thea and Lander). I think I had made bias tape from a yard or maybe even a yard and a half of quilted cotton. That is a lot of bias tape!

I didn't bind each seam allowance separately because I am too lazy, so they're not true Hong Kong seams. Instead I bound them together. I sewed the binding on in two passes, which helped me get a clean finish. I sewed it first on the wrong side, then pressed it up and over to the right side, folding the raw edge in. Then I topstitched that edge from the right side. To reduce bulk, I didn't bind the seams in the hem allowances at the bodice and sleeve hems.

The fabric I chose for this Hvar is a linen rayon blend from Joann (not dissimilar from Brussels Washer linen), in a beautiful teal color. I knew the Hvar wants a fabric with drape so that the collar lays nicely. But I also couldn't get the idea of a linen waterfall collar jacket out of my head. This fabric was a great compromise!

Yes, that is snow blowing in front of the camera in the photo above and clinging to the bottom of my pants. I took these photos on April 20th... insert crabby face emoji. It didn't stop me from wearing this springy jacket that day, though!

I'm really delighted with this jacket, even more so than with my plaid version. It just feels very "me," if you know what I mean. It's comfortable, dressy enough for work without being stuffy, and it's got a bit of personality. Yay for the Hvar jacket pattern!