Tuesday, May 2, 2023

Block print Regalia Blouse

Game, blouses. 

I didn't think I was really into blouses until recently (even the word "blouses" makes me giggle a little, and mostly think of Dave Chappelle as Prince dunking on Charlie Murphy). But after making the Seamwork Aims and Spaghetti Western Sewing Ramona, and really enjoying wearing them, I think I might be into blouses after all!

I was intrigued by the Sew House Seven Regalia Blouse when it came out, but I didn't buy it right away because I didn't need another pattern, frankly. 

The Regalia Blouse has a gathered, pullover bodice with ties at the back keyhole opening, front and back yokes and a stand-up collar. There are two lengths and two sleeves made puffy by gathering at the shoulder. 

But a couple versions I saw in the few weeks after its release really sold me... First, Peggy looking suave as hell here in this version, and then this stunning ikat version from Rachel really caught my eye.

Plus, the pattern description says "the muse and initial vision was for Indian block printed voiles," which put me over the edge. I was convinced. I have several pieces of Indian block print cotton in my stash, purchased on Arab Street in Singapore many years back when I lived in Southeast Asia.

This particular piece of springy, grass green, lightweight cotton with bright pink vagazzles (not sure what else to call them) wasn't quite enough (I only had 2 meters of 44 inch wide fabric) for the Regalia Blouse, but I was able to eke it out by cutting flat and making some strategic decisions... 

I cut the yokes on the cross grain for looks, and some of the other pieces (collar, sleeve facings) for fabric saving purposes. I also cut the inner yokes cut in cotton lawn scraps from my stash since I didn't have enough of the block print.

My Regalia is the cropped hem the long sleeves, which are gathered at the shoulder and narrow at the wrist. The long sleeves are finished with a sleeve facing, which I love. 

I cut a size 20, which turned out perfect. The pattern goes up to a size 34, which is a 61.5 inch bust and 65 inch hip.

The instructions tell you to "burrito" both the front and back yokes, but I ran into some issues on the back yoke burrito- not quite grasping that it was going to be a tight squeeze with the keyhole (it would have helped if I had reviewed the instructions or the sewalong on the Sew House Seven website).

While I was able to sew it up just fine, pulling the fabric out of the burrito was dicey and I ended up accidentally ripping the bottom of my keyhole. I was able to salvage it with some Wonder Tape, tweezers, and topstitching around the keyhole, with a dab of Fray Check to be safe. I went ahead and topstitched the yoke seams, too, while I was at it.

I took a narrower hem because I didn't want to lose length. Maybe 3/4 inch as opposed to almost 2 inches? It's perfect with high-waisted jeans.

I love it! It has a modern-but-vintagey feel, the fabric is very cheerful, and it fits really well.

Game, blouses.