Monday, July 17, 2017

Plaid McCall's 6044: Now with Sleeve and Yoke Mods!

My husband was green in the face over the classic plaid shirt I made for myself. If it weren't for the oversized buttons and bust darts, I think he might have tried to steal the shirt for himself.

Luckily I have purchased some more plaid brushed cotton from Hieng Yoo Huat (one of my favorite Bangkok fabric shops) to make him a shirt, too (in a different plaid, naturally). 

I used my TNT McCall's 6044 pattern, but I made some adjustments to jazz it up (I've been meaning to do this for a while now!). Namely, I added a back yoke, changed the sleeve from two-piece to one-piece and added a tower placket to the sleeves.

Combining the two piece sleeve into one piece was easy; there was no shaping along the seam, so it was as simple as tracing both pieces and overlapping them to eliminate the seam allowances. I used used the tower placket piece from the Liesl + Co. Classic Shirt, although I was struggling with the pointed top for some reason, so I squared it off.

I also added a basic yoke (this pattern only has a western-style yoke option). I cut the back bodice as one piece as usual, but also cut a bias yoke, straight across, about 5" down from the shoulder. I sewed the back, front and yoke piece together at the shoulder, then flipped the yoke down, pressed the edge under and then topstitched it to the back bodice.

Plaid-wise, I did approximately the same thing as I did for my plaid shirt: I cut the bodice and sleeves on the straight grain and the button stand, cuffs, tower plackets, pockets and collar on the bias. I did a decent job of plaid matching despite having the same issue with this plaid that I did with the other... so off grain!!

I took these photos in front of the trash and recycling barn (maybe originally a carriage house?) at our temporary apartment. Not sure I'll use this spot for future blog photos shoots; the lines in the wood drive me crazy because I can't get them straight!

Tim likes his shirt, though! And even though it's the dead of summer here, it's almost cold enough to wear it at night. The days are warm, but the nights get chilly. It's all relative, though, I suppose.