Thursday, September 19, 2019

Wiksten Haori

I'm pretty sure I'm the last person on earth to make the Wiksten Haori jacket...

In fact, I tried to resist this pattern for months and months, but finally broke down and bought it after seeing in person at the Brooklyn General Store during a trip to New York this spring. Even then, once I had the pattern, I agonized over fabric choice for months...

On a whim this past weekend, I landed on some stash fabric for my Wiksten Haori: this textured woven I bought at my favorite shop in Bangkok when I still lived there. It's a poly blend of some sort, not normally my fabric content of choice, but I really loved the print and colors (royal blue, black, greeny-blue and cream). From afar it looks like some complicated weaving, but it's really the design printed on a sort of checkerboard woven design.

I have no idea what I originally had in mind when I bought this fabric, but I decided it was sufficiently drapey for an oversized jacket like the Wiksten Haori, and I had enough of it, too, for this fabric hog of a pattern. In addition, I figured since I would always wear the jacket over other clothes, that decreased the likelihood that the poly fabric would touch my body much or make me sweat.

For the Wiksten Haori, my measurements put my squarely in size XL, the largest size, so that's what I cut. I think I could have easily gone down a size, particularly in the shoulders/upper bodice. But it's supposed to be slouchy and artfully oversized, so I'm cool with my choice. Plus, now it will easily fit over thick wool sweaters all winter!

I didn't have any appropriate lining fabric in my stash, so I opted to make this jacket unlined. I also skipped the interfacing in the collar band/neck band thingy because I wanted it to stay drapey and flexible. I also did single-layer patch pockets as opposed to fully lined, not for any particular reason.

This is the longest version of the Wiksten Haori, but it's been hemmed up at the bottom by 1.5" (as opposed to the 3/8" if I had lined it). I adjusted the length of the neck band accordingly.

The sleeves were really long and too slouchy. I wanted to be able to roll them up without the inside showing, so I ended up hemming them 4" up. I may go back and tack the sleeve rolls up, too, because they seem to want to unfold throughout the day...

I really like this jacket! I love the fabric- I think it looks pretty rich even though its just poly. I don't know how many of these comically oversized jackets I need in my repertoire, but I am happy to have this one. I paired it with my True Bias Lodo Dress for these photos and to wear to work, but I also imagine it will look nice over work pants or jeans.