Southwestern Emery

I told ya there would be a second one!  After my first Emery went so well, I was pretty pumped to get started on another!  Plus, I had this very busy southwestern/Aztec/tribal (what do you call this stuff?) cotton quilting-esque fabric that I bought on a whim from the sale area at one of my favorite shops in Bangkok's Chinatown fabric district, Cotton House (#277).  I realize I probably already missed the boat on this trend, but I like the fabric nonetheless, so I pushed ahead with it.  I kinda wanted a more in-your-face Emery since my last one was relatively tame.

I cut the bodice on the cross-grain to get the stripes to go horizontally, but then left the skirt with the stripes running vertically.  I tried to get the stripes to match across the side seams below the bust darts, figuring that noone was (hopefully) looking too close at my armpit region so it was ok if it didn't line up.  Despite my best efforts, the stripes don't quiiiiiiite line up across the back zipper.  I'm cool with that, though.

This Emery is unlined because I didn't have quite enough fabric.  I considered using bias tape as a facing, but ultimately decided to draft my own neckline facings by tracing the front and back necklines (taking into account the back darts)... I made them 2.5" wide and interfaced them.  Not too shabby!  I stitched them down at the shoulders and in the zipper seam allowance so they don't pop out.

Somehow, even though I made the same size as my first, this one became a little tight across the chest once the sleeves were attached, only when I try to put my arms behind my back.  My only guess is that it's due to the fabric having less stretch/give because it's more tightly woven than the fabric I used for my first Emery?  Also, on this one, it seems more obvious that I might need a slight swayback adjustment.  That said, I like how this slightly stiffer fabric gives the skirt a little more body.  Good stuff:

Anywho, I love this Emery... it's so bright and fun and girly and a little crazy, and I really dig how the stripes look going in different directions.  I feel like it has a bit of a Modcloth-y feel to it, perhaps.

My First Emery

But definitely not my last!  I didn't jump on Christine Haynes' Emery dress pattern bandwagon right away, partially because I hadn't really forayed into dresses yet and partially because the peter pan collar and vintage bow details were not really my style (I find them too twee for me, although I think they're cute on other people).  But once I saw all of the rave reviews of the fit and instructions, I was definitely more intrigued.  I'm really glad I went ahead and got the pattern, because there is a reason for the raves: it's a great pattern and can be the basis for lots of different dresses, not just vintage-style ones.

Lucky for me, this pattern required no alterations for me, with the darts (all 8 of them, scratch that, all 16 of them since the bodice is fully lined!) all hitting in the right place.  Hooray!   

For me, Emery : Peony as Sureau : Darling Ranges regarding fitting issues.

This dress needs accessories.

I made my first Emery with this interesting fabric I got on clearance at Joann last year.  I think it was $2/yard, maybe?  I like it a lot, but it was a bit shred-y to work with and I am a little worried that it will get picked easily.... one errant cat claw and it's toast.  I'm not sure what you call it, but it seems like cotton (or at least a blend), it's soft and doesn't press very crisply, it's got warp of one color and weft of another (navy and brown), plus it has woven in polka dots in red, turquoise and bright yellow.  Here's an up-close of both sides of the fabric:

I was a slave to the instructions and the infinitely helpful sewalong posts on Christine's blog. Particularly enlightening was the invisible zipper instructions in the sewalong: awesome.  With the help of those instructions and my new invisible zipper foot (thanks, Mom!), I have now successfully (and mostly correctly) inserted my first invisible zip!  Wooooooo!  And on a dress with a fully-lined bodice, no less.  It the top a little lumpy?  Is the zip slightly visible at the waistline? Yes and yes.  But I am calling this a win nonetheless.

I was particularly happy with how easily the sleeves eased into the bodice.  I've eased seams before, but typically end up with inadvertent gathers or bunchiness.  This time, though: smooth sailing.

So after all that gushing, you can sure expect more Emery dresses in the (near) future!