Friday, May 27, 2016

Pindot Melilot

This is my wearable muslin of the Deer and Doe Melilot blouse pattern! 

I wanted to make a practice shirt before cutting into the Cotton and Steel rayon challis I purchased with my winnings from last year's International Anna party giveaway...

My fabric is something I stole from my mom's stash. It's probably older, or at least as old as I am. White cotton with kelly green printed pindots. The buttons are lovely little shiny green guys I bought here in Bangkok at Chatuchak Market. The fabric is perhaps a bit stiff for this pattern. I'm looking forward to making the blouse in a fabric with more drape. 

The largest size in Deer and Doe patterns tends to fit me pretty well in the bust, but is a little small at the hip. I graded out by adding 1/2" to the side seams of the front and back pattern pieces at the hip (for a total of an extra 2" in circumference), curving the line down from the waist.

I also decreased the seam allowances at the underarm and cuff seams to 1/4" to give my arms more room.

Since the pockets cover the bust dart, I was sure to pin them on using my tailor's ham to make sure they lay smoothly over the curve. the pockets are quite 3D since they are lined/double-layered.

The hem on the Melilot is so curved that I was having a lot of trouble doing a double-turned hem. I ended up using bias tape to face the hem, which worked out well.

That hem: curvy and long in the back! I haven't decided if it's too long or just long enough:

I decided to turn the cuffs up once and stitch them down in a couple of places because I found they were poking out a bit at the shoulders. 

I'm pretty happy with the Melilot blouse! A cute basic. Plus no set-in sleeves? Yes, please. I'm definitely looking forward to making it again in a fabric with some more drape.