Thursday, December 14, 2017

Toaster Sweater Week: Simplicity 8529

Recently I stumbled upon the latest version of the Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater, Simplicity 8529 while paging through the Simplicity pattern book at Joann Fabrics during a sale week. I figured it was kismet and that I should make one for Toaster Sweater Week!

Sew House Seven has developed a few new versions of the Toaster Sweater for Simplicity, several mix-and-match views in Simplicity 8529.

Design-wise, there is some overlap with both of the indie versions of the Toaster Sweaters, but the Simplicity versions have some unique features worth mentioning, primarily that all the versions in the envelope have dropped shoulders and there is an option for a crew neckline.

I opted to make View C, with the side slits and crew neckline. Looking at the finished measurements, I chose to make a size Large (18/20) to give myself about 4 inches of positive ease at the bust. I didn't make any fit changes. I think I chose the right size!

For my Simplicity 8529 Toaster, I used some cream colored textured cotton jersey that I bought a few years back at Mercer's Fabric in Boston (RIP, Mercer's!). When I bought it, I didn't quite grasp that the stripes were vertical rather than horizontal. Considering the fabric has very minimal stretch and the pattern has positive ease, I probably could have cut the stripes against the grain without problem, but I followed the rules and cut the main bodice pieces and sleeves on-grain.

However, I did cut the neckband and cuffs on the cross-grain for visual interest, which was a bit of a gamble from a functional perspective. Because of the lack of stretch, I struggled to get the neckband in without tiny folds, but in the end, with a bit of unpicking and resewing, I managed it! The cuffs were totally fine; no problems sewing or wearing them despite the lack of stretch.

As far as comparing the Simplicity 8529 View C to its closest indie relative, Toaster Sweater #2, here goes:

- First, the obvious: Simplicity 8529 has dropped shoulders and a crew-style neck option, whereas #2 has more set-in sleeves and a funnel-style neck.

- I also noticed that the Simplicity version has cuffed sleeves for all versions, whereas Toaster Sweater #2 has hemmed sleeves. 

- The Simplicity version is longer in the bodice by about 2.5 inches.

- The Simplicity version's side slits hit me about 2 inches higher that those on Toaster Sweater #2.

- The side slit/hem junction on the Simplicity version is not mitered like it is on Toaster Sweater #2. 

I really like the final shirt! I'm not totally convinced that dropped shoulders are the most flattering on me, but I keep making them any way. I think ultimately I prefer the shoulder style from Toaster Sweater #2 and the lovely touch the mitered corners give the top. But I love the extra length on the Simplicity version, as well as the crew neck.

I'm happy I gave the Simplicity Toaster Sweater pattern a try! I'd like to try this version in a knit with a bit more drape, like the versions on the pattern cover.

Maybe my perfect Toaster Sweater is a combination of features from all 3 versions of the Toaster Sweaters?! I think it would be really fun to mix and match all the options to get The Ultimate Toaster Sweater.

Tune in here tomorrow for the final day of Toaster Sweater Week!